Onward Blog 2013

BOSTON ONWARD ISRAEL 2013
WITH CJP

130 students engage
with the Jewish homeland through professional summer internships

Hear what they have to say.

Sign up for your
Onward Israel experience

SEE YOU NEXT TIME, ISRAEL!

August 5, 2013

Well, this is it. The saying “Time flies when you’re having fun” definitely applies in Haifa, too. I have written about a lot of the things we have done and I'd like to sum them all up and end with a fun fact about our Haifa group. Oh, and also, what would one of my blogs be without saying that we’re going to the beach again today! So much beach!

I may shed a digital tear while writing this! To start this journey, I blogged about my adventures at orientation which included, but was not limited to, the many icebreakers, feasts, and awkward situations that normal orientations come with. Orientation feels like years ago but it was only two months. I’m still trying to process this whole trip! Next I blogged about our Thursday trip to volunteer by cleaning up the site of the “2010 Carmel Fire” by cutting low branches and piling up dead/dry wood. After that activity we went to the Atlit Detainee Camp where post-WWII European Jews were held when they tried to enter the British-controlled territory, and then to the the Druze village Ussaffiya where we had one of the best dinners to date.

Going on to week four of our eight week trip I blogged about our trip to Yeruham for our Shabbaton weekend! This is the trip where we met with other groups like Cleveland Onward Israel and spent a weekend with them. We were split into predetermined groups and I went on the trip that went to the Israel Museum Judaica Exhibit and the Mahane Yehudah Shuk. The whole weekend was full of different adventures (I also went to Mitzpeh Ramon to do a dance workshop) and I even saw an old friend from middle school who was on a different trip! Week five we went to Tzfat where we did some community service and then took a tour of the holy city. I recommend visiting Tzfat if you come to Israel, it is beautiful.

(L-R) Omer, Jamie, Lance

Lance, sporting Northeastern University gear, while overlooking Gush Etzion

During week six we went to the Negev to learn about a farming community in the desert, visit an oasis park, and visit a desert community consisting of just 13 families! Lastly, for week seven we went to Gush Etzion, Kibbutz Kfar Etzion, The Lone Tree, and spoke with a Palestinian with the Eretz Shalom Project. All of our group activities have been informative and exciting and I will miss traveling with all of the Boston Onward Israel people. This whole trip has given me the greatest of memories and I can’t wait until my next time in Israel. Goodbye Haifa and goodbye Israel, I will see you next time!

Lance Watner, Northeastern University '15, traveled to Israel with his school's Taglit-Birthright Israel trip, and is interning this summer in the Cardiology Department of the Carmel Medical Center as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Haifa participant.

GOODBYE FOR NOW, ISRAEL

August 4, 2013

On one of our last weeks on Onward Israel, we woke up early on Saturday morning for a walking tour through the neighborhood of Musrara. The interesting thing about Musrara is that after the creation of the Green Line in 1948, the city was divided into two - separating its once united citizens between the West Bank and Jerusalem. The artists in the city are currently working together to reconnect both sides. They brought us around the entire town, showed us unique architectural buildings, community centers, and decorative urban art. The tour ended at the Watermelon stand - selling watermelon by day and holding events at night. It symbolizes the importance of both the Red and Green Lines and provides a meeting point for community members of both areas to come together and socialize.

“All good things come to an end.” My closure meeting with my boss at Jerusalem 5800 was at the Hillel Café, and ironically enough, that location is exactly where my first day of work began with the physical planner of Israel. It was a humbling feeling to know that my summer experience was a challenging, but rewarding one. During my internship I was faced with architectural challenges that I had no experience with as well as meeting a variety of people that I will stay in contact with throughout my career.

Many of my friends questioned my decision to come to Israel, especially for two months. Packing my bags and flying across the world was out of my comfort zone, but I can honestly say that it has given me the opportunity to grow as a young adult. Last night, I had the chance to stop my chaotic schedule, and sit in silence overlooking the city skyline of Jerusalem. I was finally able to clear my mind and reflect on this amazing journey. I now fully understand a saying that was told to me during the first few days of my trip, “If I forget Jerusalem, then I forget my right hand.” Israel, this is not goodbye, it’s see you later. SHALOM!

Jerusalem 5800 Conference presenting potential developments to politicians

Jerusalem at night

Steven Baron, Boston Architectural College '15, participated on Taglit-Birthright Israel in January, 2012. He is interning at Jerusalem 5800, a long-term urban planning group, as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Jerusalem participant.

MEMORIES AND MOMENTS

August 3, 2013

As this trip unravels its last moments there is a lot to reflect on. This week alone has been a rollercoaster of new and exciting adventures contributing to this amazing summer.

In the beginning of the week I traveled to Tel Aviv to visit my cousins who I haven’t seen in seven years. We spent the day at the pool and wandering around shops near the beach. Family is mostly defined by blood. But there is so much more that goes into it. Although we haven’t seen each other in many years and are a lot older; their love is unconditional.

Later on in the week I traveled to Tel Aviv again to take a tour around the city. Even though I missed the tour bus, it was still one of the best days on the trip. I asked for places to go (in Hebrew!) and ended up at the Diaspora Museum, Dizengoff Center, Rothschild Square, and finally the beach. Sometimes the mind needs to be cleared to truly appreciate the beauty a day can offer. I spent the day reflecting on the moments I have had here and the moments that are to come in the coming days.

This past weekend I went to two dance shows. The first one was performed by Yael Flexor, an incredible choreographer from England. The piece was heavily modern influenced with a twist of contemporary dance. The second piece called “Say No More” was choreographed by my boss. Helping with the production was really interesting and honestly a good experience.

Today I helped pick up German dancers from the airport. I explained some important things about Israel and know how phrases such as “Where is the bathroom,” and “I don’t understand.” After formal and informal introductions and getting settled in the hotel I headed over to a Mitzvah Heroes dinner. There I met some very big philanthropists and heroes of the community who contribute to social justice in Israel and the world.

This is just a typical week here in Israel. Meeting up with family, going on random adventures, seeing live shows, and working for Machol Shalem, are just a day in the life. In the last few days of this program I plan to live it up, continue to try new things and make this summer unforgettable.

Samantha (far Left) dining with Jerusalem participants

A Wonderful Reminder

Samantha (R) in Tel Aviv with cousins

Samantha Weinstein, UMass-Amherst '14, traveled to Israel with CJP twice before - first with their Taglit-Birthright Israel trip, and then on their Alternative Spring Break program - and is interning this summer at the Machol Shalem Dance Studio during her time with the Boston Onward Israel 2013 Jerusalem program.

THE DEFENSE OF YOUR HOME

August 2, 2013

Today, NGO Monitor, my internship location, wished the interns a safe trip "home" and handed us all travel mugs as a gift for our work we did over this two month period. After this goodbye party, it hit me; I'm not going to be in Israel in 12 days from now. I put the word home in quotations because I don't consider America my home. I consider a place I feel safe and loved my home and I feel that in two places: my parent's home in Houston, TX, and anywhere in Israel. America is the place I was raised; Israel is the place I learned who I am. Everytime I come back home, to Israel, I realize something new about myself. This time, I realized I want to work toward ending the Arab-Israeli conflict.

NGO Monitor has showed me a different aspect to this conflict in which foreign funding and international governments play a distinctive role in how the world perceives the struggle between Israel and Palestinians. I want to be a part of the new conversation that ends the chaos and creates peace. Israel is my home and it is my responsibility to protect it. I never have felt a passion like that toward America.

Going back to my campus will be difficult, in terms of how I will be representing Israel. Because Clark is such a liberal school, a lot of students are active in the pro-Palestinian/anti-Israel narrative on campus. I think it is great to be involved, but my Israel club advocates for an open-minded perspective and a desire to hold difficult dialogues in hopes for change, and many students refuse to engage in conversation with CHAI (Clarkies Helping and Advocating for Israel). I hope what I have learned this summer will be able to help me engage with my fellow students, in and outside of my club, in conversations and actions we can take to promote peace in the Middle East.

The Azrieli Towers in the background, with a freeway sign pointing to "Derech Shalom," or "Peace Street," in the foreground

The logo for NGO Monitor

Anna Blum, Clark '15, studies Political Science and History. Having been to Israel previously numerous times, she is interning this summer as the Research / Communications Intern of NGO Monitor during her time with Boston Onward Israel 2013 Jerusalem.

LAST OF THE LOCALS

August 2, 2013

Both creators of Pixtr, the Israel-based startup where I found my second internship, have gone to Boston to continue working on their venture as a part of the MassChallenge program. I hope to keep up my relationship with Pixtr and help out from college. At Henrietta Szold, the school year ends the same day our program ends. The teachers are taking down posters and packing up their classrooms. With only two days left of school, the excited anticipation is tangible in the air.

I spent this last weekend in Israel exploring Tel Aviv. Here’s a sample of the people I met there:

The bikers, they argue

Searching for treasure at the Jaffa Flea Market

Fishing off the Jaffa Port

The only worker in Dr. Lek, an ice cream shop in Jaffa, who kindly let me try nearly every flavor before I finally made a decision. (I ended up with white chocolate cherry and strawberry cheesecake.)

Tanya, an old friend from elementary school, who graduated high school early to make aliyah and join the army. She’s now teaching soldiers how to use tanks.

Steven, the wrestler, who can’t play in the Maccabiah games because he’s not Jewish, but still traveled from Canada to Israel to support his team.

Zack, another wrestler, who represented Brown University here for Maccabiah!

David, a friend from Brown and a native of South Africa, who made aliyah just a couple weeks ago and plans to join the army in a few months.

The taxi driver from France who made me laugh with his story of the disastrous meal he ate at the Las Vegas Chabad.

The police officer on the Sherut from Tel Aviv to Haifa who took it upon himself to help us figure out how to get back to the dorms on Shabbat.

The artists at the clay jewelry shop in Jaffa who showed us what they call “the mystery room” -- an ancient circular chamber they discovered when expanding the gallery a few years ago.

The woman at the Nachlat Binyamin art fair who sold a special kind of hair clip that is already starting to change my life -- or, at least, how I wear my hair.

It’s certainly going to take some time to process the events of this summer. The people I met here in Israel have inspired me, surprised me, and made me smile and laugh. There is so much to take away from this experience. Mostly, however, the people of Israel have showed me that everyone’s got something interesting to offer, and you never really know how someone will affect you until you get to talking.

Israel, you have become a second home to me. I am sad to leave you, and I sincerely hope to be back soon. Am Israel Chai!

Rebecca Carrol, Brown '15, is studying Biology and Anthropology. Having been to Israel with Taglit-Birthright Israel (Winter 2013) with her university's Hillel, she is interning this summer at the Henrietta Szold School as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Haifa participant.

THE BEST FOR LAST

August 1, 2013

Whenever I go on a trip somewhere, I always have a temporary list of things I want to accomplish while I’m staying in that place and over time it grows depending on the length I’m there and all that jazz. For Israel, the list has been extensive and has had time to really develop. Some things have to do with trying certain foods while others require a bit more time management like traveling to certain places. The one item on my list that has been there from the beginning (even though I did it last time I was in Israel) and that I finally accomplished this past weekend was going to the Kotel in Jerusalem. I took the bus from Haifa to Jerusalem with my roommate, Ranya, who was also meeting family there, and I had some time before getting picked up by my relatives who live in Gush Etzion.

After doing some souvenir shopping in the Jerusalem Central Station mall, I decided to walk to the Old City on my own. According to many people who I asked for directions, it is a very long journey but as a New Yorker who spends a good deal of her time walking from place to place, this did not faze me. After about half an hour of walking, the City was in sight!

After haggling two necklaces down to about half their original prices in the shop near the Jaffa Gate entrance to the Old City, I weaved my way through to the Jewish Quarter and then with some more weaving around narrow walkways and lots of stairs I finally arrived at the Kotel. Last time I was there was with my class, we all partook in a kind of communal appreciation of what the Western Wall meant to us and to the Jewish People. But being there on my own felt completely different. I thought, “I am standing by the place that every Jew faces when they pray all over the world.” And I could feel that energy. It was empowering. Also, with the Dome of the Rock in such close proximity, it creates a unifying feeling of not only Jews but Muslims and Christians as well and that created a whole new level of depth to the place.

I have learned so much about Israel geographically, culturally, and religiously, as well as about working with special needs kids through my internships and I have made friends that I will surely keep in touch with when I go back to college. All in all, Onward Israel has given me a life changing experience and for that I am forever grateful. I hope my next visit here is not too far off into the future!

David's Citadel and the Old City Walls

The Western Wall in Jerusalem

The Old City Walls at night in the background

Mariya Timkovsky, Brandeis '14, is a Psychology and English major. Having been to Israel in 8th grade, she is excited to spend her summer interning with the Ofakim School for Special Education as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Haifa participant.

A PART OF ME IN ISRAEL

August 1, 2013

It’s the little, unexpected things that really stand out and make the memories. Yes, Tsfat was tons of fun, but it’s the delicious one-shekel ice bars that will stand out in my memory when I look back. Sure, strolling down Ben Yehuda was a great way to spend an evening, but it’s the second-hand bookstore down the alley and up the stairs that was a bibliophile’s dream-come-true that I’ll be sure to visit next time I’m in Israel. It’s the kindness of a total stranger who offered to share her copy of Lamentations with me on Tisha Ba’Av after seeing me search fruitlessly through the bookcases at the Kotel. It’s the joy of cooking a dish for the first time and taking that first bite and realizing, hey, this is pretty delicious. It’s the sudden breeze on an unbearably hot day that suddenly makes anything seem possible. It’s when the girl next to me on the train is reading my favorite fantasy novel. A wonderful cup of coffee from Café Aroma. A tasty cheese boureka at the shuk. A gorgeous skirt at an even better price.

These are the things I will take with me back to America in a week. I’ll spend the flight watching movies and knitting, and once I get back I have only a few weeks to prepare for school and sew a couple of plushie dolls I promised my friends. But once the dust settles and I’m back in the college groove, I’ll look back through my photos of this summer and I’ll remember.

Each time I leave Israel, it’s bittersweet. I’m always sad to leave, but I know that it isn’t goodbye forever, and I’ll be back. This time, I know exactly when: this coming spring I’ll be studying abroad at Ben-Gurion University in Beersheva. So it’s only goodbye for a little while, just six months or so.

I’ve had an incredible summer, but I’m ready to go back. I’m ready to eat meals I didn’t cook, ready to bake cookies and see my parents and college friends again. I’m ready to be reunited with my beautiful, adorable snakes. I’m ready to sleep in my own bed and be able to use Netflix and HBO. But still… The first time I came to Israel, I was fourteen and on my 8th grade class trip. As we stumbled bleary-eyed and jetlagged though the airport, I felt as though there’d been something missing all my life that I hadn’t realized, not until this very moment when I got it back.

There’s a part of me that stays in Israel, and each time I return, I am whole again. And each time I leave, I feel like I leave more of myself behind. So it’s bon voyage, sayonara, shalom lehitraot. But only for a short time. I will be back.

Miriam enjoying natural Israel

With a friend at the beach

Ben Gurion University of the Negev

Miriam Sokolow, Brandeis '15, studies English and Creative Writing and is spending her summer interning at The Jerusalem Post as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Jerusalem participant.

A YOUTUBE WITH A MILLION VIEWS

July 31, 2013

Today Sam and I presented our summers’ work to the CEO of InSightec, Dr. Kobi Vortman. Needless to say, I was quite intimidated coming into the meeting. I heard Dr. Vortman speak at the very beginning of the program at the Technion, and have watched the his YouTube Video “The Operating Room of the Future” multiple times, which now has over a million views.

In the meeting, I told Dr. Vortman about the projects I have been working on, and he asked me questions about my experience and my findings. He pushed me to think critically about the work I’ve done and what work remains to be done for the company. The meeting helped me realize how much I learned and accomplished these past two months.

As the program draws to a close, on Thursday we have our closing ceremony, in which we will each give presentations about our internships, similar to the one I gave today for Dr. Vortman. Although I have started to summarize my work and my experience, it’s difficult to reflect on my summer as a whole. All in all, I have had a great time living in Israel with the group. Israel has been amazing, and luckily I have another month here after the program ends to spend more time exploring and visiting family.

I think what I will miss most when the trip is over is living with the group. Although we are all very different and come from different backgrounds, we meshed well together and had a lot of fun. I became very close to new friends, and its weird to think that we will all never again be in the same place at once. It will be nice to know new people at different schools in Boston, though, once we go back, and I know I’ll keep in touch with many of my new friends.

Maggie, Mai, Jared, Alexandra, and Moriah

Mai, Alexandra, and Serena

Alexandra Zeitouni, Tufts '15, interned at the Consulate General of Israel to New England during the school year and is interning this summer at Insightec as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Haifa participant.

A GROUP TRIP TO ACCO

July 30, 2013

Our organized Thursday trips around Israel have come to an end. However, that doesn’t mean that we can’t still travel the country! Ambitious as it sounds, five of us got up early on a weekend day (Thursday here), got some coffee and sweets, and made our way to the train. Our destination, Akko, or “Acre,” or “Acco” - a small city 25 minutes north of Haifa. The cool thing, it’s one of the oldest actively inhabited sites in the world!

While traveling through the ancient city, Ori and James worked on filming a movie they’re working on. This was awesome. It not only forced us to run around the city and find cool sites to shoot, but it also helped us get into places or get discounts. An instinctive decision we made was going on a boat tour around the outskirts of Akko. After seeing the camera Ori was carrying, the price quickly decreased.

On a more somber note, we’re coming to an end of the internship and blogging! I could say that I’ve learned a lot and that it’s been amazing… but that’s obvious. Instead, for better or worse, we might be coming back with some aspects of Israeli culture. Maybe the impatience, pushing, or the free-for-all-everyone-rush-to-the-train-at-once-while-people-are-trying-to-get-out, we’ll have to wait and see. (Just kidding though, this country rocks). We’ve eaten plenty of frozen shnitzel, falafel and Israeli salad, and loved every minute of it.

(1) Serena getting a camera up and running; (2) The Acco Port; (3) James, one of the star actors, on a boat

Omer Sander, UMass Amherst '16, participated on Taglit-Birthright Israel with UMass-Amherst Hillel during Winter 2012-13. He is interning this summer at Dynamic Shipping Services, Ltd as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Haifa participant.

SQUEEZING IN SOME MORE ISRAEL

July 29, 2013

Serena (L) and Moriah (R) on a hike at Mt. Carmel

Entrance Sign to Mt. Carmel National Park

All good things come to an end, and with my last days here I am trying to maximize my time to the absolute fullest. My internship came to a close this week, culminating in the most incredible 3-day adventure of Israeli music, dance, art, poetry, and so much more. Watching the community respond to the performances, and watching the performers themselves, made all of those stressful days in the office so worthwhile and created a memory that I will always cherish.

With my newfound free time, a group of us decided to spend Friday in Acco. I had never been there, and it is among the most beautiful places I’ve seen in Israel. Something about the old, stone buildings against the brilliant turquoise sea reminded me of pictures I’ve seen of Greece - another place I’ve always wanted to go. We walked around the old city, impulsively said yes to a motorboat ride along the coast (and so glad we did), and treated ourselves to a delicious lunch by the water. After we got home, I accompanied my friend Moriah to Shabbat dinner at her Supervisor’s house. As always, connections were made - she was an Emerson theater alum!

The next day, a few of us switched gears into “nature mode” as we hiked through the Carmel Forest. While we had expected to swim there and the watering hole was, well, evaporated, we still were grateful for the experience to see another element of Israel.

So, I guess this is goodbye for now. I hope I was able to convey my office shenanigans, cooking catastrophes, and all the memories through my words - but if not, I guess you have to come experience Israel for yourself! Shalom :-)

Serena Kassow, Emerson '16, is the Israel Chair of her campus' Hillel. She is interning this summer with the Neve Yosef Theater Festival and the Haifa English Theater as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Haifa participant.

A TO-DO LIST IN ISRAEL

July 28, 2013

‪It's incredible when I take a second and think about the fact that I've been living in Jerusalem for six and a half weeks. What's even more incredible is that my time here is waning and less than two weeks remain. At the beginning of the summer, my roommate and I created an "Israel Bucket List," which is essentially a long list of tourist sites in Jerusalem, restaurants, bars, and other places in Israel. Though I've accepted the fact that I will not have the opportunity to check off each item on the list, I have in fact made progress. And in the past week, I've had some unique Israeli adventures that weren't even on our Word document in the first place.

On a Hike in the Ein Karem area of Jerusalem

Group Shot on the Hike

Last Monday, on the eve of Tisha B'Av, I went to the Kotel. This was only my third time visiting the Western Wall since being in Israel, so it was important to me to re-visit the holy site, especially during such a significant holiday. The next morning, I woke up at 4:30 AM to watch the sunrise at the wall with a friend on my program. When I returned back to the hotel a couple of hours later, my friend who was visiting from Tel Aviv (who had been sound asleep the whole morning) was shocked that I actually made it out of the hotel so early in the morning. I was too, actually. Normally, waking up before noon is a struggle for me, but I had known that the opportunity to watch the sunrise in the Old City may not come around again so quickly. So I did what I had to do to get myself out of bed that morning.

‪Later that day, my friend and I went to the Jerusalem Biblical Zoo (something that actually was on my Israel to-do list). I had not visited a zoo in years, so I was super excited to see bears, monkeys, and a lion up close. We spent a couple of hours at the zoo, laughed a lot, sweated a fair amount in the heat, and took dozens of pictures.

Thursday was trip day, and the educational theme was, "Heritage and History: the story of Gush Etzion." On Friday, a group of us spent the day in Ein Karem; we went on a hike (or what can better be considered a nature walk, since what we did was not overly strenuous).

‪That night, we had "shabbat-luck" and we all brought something different to the Shabbat dinner. There was no shortage of food—we enjoyed wine, challah, hummus, pasta, chicken, and vegetables. On Saturday, I had my first real lazy day since I've been in Israel. I slept, hung out with friends in an apartment, and had lunch at 5 PM. It was relaxing and marked the end of another great week in Jerusalem.

The View of Ein Karem

Meredith van der Walde, Brandeis '15, is a Psychology major. Having participated on Taglit-Birthright Israel (Winter 2013) with Brandeis University, she is interning at JVP Community (Bakehila) as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Jerusalem participant.

A SECOND HOME IN ISRAEL

July 28, 2013

This past Thursday, our whole group, including the participants of the Boston Onward Israel Haifa group, went to Gush Etzion. While there, we toured the Kfar Etzion Kibbutz and learned about the settlement movement in Israel, particularly in that area of the country. We ended up at a winery, where we were served an incredible meal and tasted the wine made there. It was a relaxing way to spend our last content day.

I have only three weeks left in Israel this summer. Two of these final weeks still on the program, the last spent on my own in Israel. I can’t believe my time is almost up; I’ve had the most amazing, enriching experience of my life. Being able to live, work, explore a country that I have such a deep connection to for the entire summer is something that I will never forget. I will miss Israel like crazy when I go home, and while I am so excited to see my family and to go back to school in a month, I am also sad that I won’t be back here for a while.

But it is a comfort to know that when I do come back, and I absolutely will, I have something to go back to. I know the streets of Jerusalem, I’ve made friends and connections here, and I have so many memories all over this city and all over this state. The next time I come here, it won’t feel like I’m visiting a foreign country; it will feel like a second home to me. It already does.

Taking in the View from Gush Etzion

At the beach in Tel Aviv

Lilia Gaufberg, Clark '16, studies Psychology. Having been to Israel with Taglit-Birthright Israel (Winter 2013) with Clark University Hillel, she is interning this summer at the Ethiopian National Project as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Jerusalem participant.

AT HOME IN ISRAEL

July 27, 2013

As the weeks have gone by I’ve felt more and more comfortable living and working in Israel. I’ve made friends with the family who owns the neighboring grocery store, I feel like I’m almost on a first name basis with the man who runs the baker at the top of the Carmelit, and I am basically best friends with the owner of the fruit stand (he even introduced me to his son, who is 12!).

This past week I traveled around Tel Aviv and wandered around Jerusalem. I rented bikes in Tel Aviv and rode to Yafo with a friend from home; we tasted different Israeli microbrewed beers and tried dried and candied fruit and veggies from around the world. In Jerusalem I got lost in the Christian and Arab markets and ate at an Armenian restaurant. I ate oodles of fruits, vegetables, candies and more and spent so little - something you can’t do in America!

As the trip is coming to an end I’m starting to realize how much I’ve learned this trip, beyond the Hebrew and the bus routes I can now take without needing a map. Like how I can totally see myself in the PR industry or even photography. I’ve learned how to cook meals for myself that go way beyond the classic college mac and cheese and I have learned how to pick out fresh fruit thanks to the help of my market friend.

The time for packing up is coming close but I am alright with that because when I arrive home I will be landing feet away from my high school best friends that I haven’t seen in almost a year! And, when I get back to Boston I will be reunited with my new friends and hopefully be working on helping out Onward as just a small “thank you” for letting me have one of the best summers of my life.

A Haifa Shop Owner

Comfort starts with good food!

At Home in Israel

Karmiya Farber, Simmons College '16, is spending her summer in the PR and Marketing Department of the University of Haifa International School as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Haifa participant.

MUSICAL JERUSALEM

July 26, 2013

The Lev Yerushalayim Hotel

Jerusalem Street Musicians

The Lev Yerushalayim Hotel is directly translated to "The Heart of Jerusalem Hotel", which purposefully, I would assume, is exactly where this hotel is positioned. However generous it was for the program to give us pre-paid bus passes around the city, I rarely need to take mobile transportation. My internship office, The Old City, and the Central Bus Station are all fifteen-minute walks away from "The Lev," while Machaneh Yehudah (The Market/Shuk), Ben Yehudah Street, and all the bars in town are only a two-five minute schlep away. It's amazing! We, the Boston Onward Israel Jerusalem group, definitely lucked out this summer- if only the refrigerators were not the same size as college dorm room fridge rentals, everything would be perfect.

Because everything is so close to The Lev, one could think this location would become too routine and boring after a short period of time. All I can say is, you just have to live here for two months to see for yourself! Every time I walk down Ben Yehudah or rush the to Central Bus Station before Shabbat, without fail, I notice something or someone new to observe.

There were FIFA tournaments stationed in the middle of Ben Yehudah Street for a few weeks, children raising money for their summer camp, a man juggling fire sticks, someone in a lion suit, my old math teacher buying Schwarma (I promise it actually happened), social protests, and so much more. I see the same people very frequently around the heart of Jerusalem, but the new people are what I notice even more.

Tonight, as I was walking up Ben Yehudah toward The Lev, I noticed musicians exciting the night with their jingles. The street performers in Jerusalem are very peculiar. I know it might not be true, and it might be very cheesy, but I imagine that even if these musicians made no money tonight, they would still be just as happy. They are providing this city with even more life than it already has, and engaging the Jerusalemites with their passion. I appreciate the people who enhance the City of Gold with their individuality. I appreciate this program for giving us the opportunity to live in the heart of Jerusalem and experience the old, and the new, everyday of our summer.

A crowd gathers around a Jerusalem street musician

RETURNING TO GUSH ETZION

July 25, 2013

This week in Haifa we started off by continuing the tradition of hanging on the beach and around the dorms after work. I don’t think this will change for our group or any group in Haifa in the future. It is just too fun to be with the other participants!

This week I have quite the experience to share with you! It all happened on our mandatory trip on Thursday. It was the best one yet!

To start off the day we woke up and met at the bus at 7:00 am and drove to Gush Etzion. We arrived at a lookout in the town (in the West Bank!) where we could see for miles! Too bad it was absolutely freezing with gale force winds blowing our hats off.

The view was great, rolling hills, beautiful landscape, and Middle Eastern style buildings dotted the land. From there we got back onto the bus and headed to Kibbutz Kfar Etzion.

The Lone Tree in the West Bank

Lance refilling his water bottle - an important tradition in the Middle East

This Kibbutz is special for several reasons. It was founded before Israel was declared a state and was the first Kibbutz in the area. Its original residents became locked in a war with the Muslim locals and were eventually beaten. Later on, the children (who evacuated) came back to the same plot of land and rebuilt the Kibbutz. Along with three other Kibbutzim they have almost merged and it has become a very large residential area. When we were there we checked out the museum they had built and learned about the history of the four Kibbutzim. We also watched a documentary detailing the struggles the original settlers faced. From the Kibbutz we traveled to “The Lone Tree” which is a very significant tree for the Kibbutz Kfar Etzion settlers because it was the only thing left after the Muslims drove them out.

After the tree we headed to Gush Etzion Winery, toured the winery, learned about how they make their wine, and then had one of the best meals of the entire trip! Only Shabbat dinners could keep up! I’m talking pizza, pasta, salad, amazing bread, and then free wine tasting and dessert to end the meal.

RECONNECTING WITH FAMILY

July 24, 2013

Since my mother was born in Israel and my father grew up here, most of my extended family lives in Israel. Because I usually visit in the summers with my father, I’m used to spending more time with his side of the family in the Tel Aviv area than with my mom’s side.

Celebrating a Bar Mitzvah at the Kotel

Knowing I would be in Haifa, my maternal grandmother asked me to reach out to her first cousin who happens to live in Haifa. Finally this past week I got the chance to meet up with her. I went over to her house, where I met her daughters, her granddaughter, and her sister for the first time in years. As expected, they were all extremely nice and welcoming and shared cute stories about my mother when she was little.

It turns out they live less than ten minutes from where I’ve been working in Haifa all summer long, and I’m glad I finally got the opportunity to reconnect with family I hadn’t seen in so long.

Then on Thursday, my mom and brother arrived in Israel for a two-week stay. I spent the weekend in Tel Aviv with them and had another chance to meet family members I hadn’t seen in a very long time, this time from my maternal grandfathers side of the family. On Saturday we went to my great grandmother’s sister's house for dinner, where four of her seven children, their spouses, and their kids also met us. We had a delicious Moroccan meal, and I had the chance to get to know one of my cousins who graduated from the Technion this past year.

Today, many of those same cousins joined us at the Kotel where my brother made an aliyah to the Torah in honor of his Bar Mitzvah. While I have been to the Kotel many times, I have never been there on a Monday morning when tons of boys are celebrating their bar mitzvahs. Walking into the Kotel, there were groups of families walking behind bimas where the bar mitzvah boy stood, being danced over to the Kotel with music and drumming. Then at the Kotel, there were many different tables of families celebrating their Bar Mitzvahs, while the women stood on chairs overlooking the men’s section in order to witness the special occasions. It was a very happy and cheerful atmosphere, and I’m glad I got to experience it with so many family members.

With Family at the Kotel

GUSH ETZION AND WINE

July 24, 2013

This summer has flown by so quickly and once again the adage "Time flies when you’re having fun" rings true! We had our last group trip this past Thursday. I learned a lot about the history of Israel’s fight for independence that I never knew before. We visited Gush Etzion, which is a block of mostly Jewish settlements in the West Bank about half an hour south of Jerusalem. We went to one of the four kibbutzim there called Kfar Etzion where there was a museum about the significance of the area. All that remains of the original Gush Etzion before it was destroyed and rebuilt and destroyed and rebuilt again is the Lone Oak. It was a very large tree and a lot of fun to climb.

The Lone Oak, the only remnant of the original Gush Etzion area

After a delicious lunch at a restaurant at a winery in Gush Etzion, we got a little tour of the winery and got to try some of their wine. It was interesting to hear about the different processes that different types of wines go through and what makes one wine more expensive than another one.

Machinery at the Winery

Over the weekend, I got to experience a Bar Mitzvah in Israel. My cousin read the Torah beautifully and though he didn’t have the typical party afterwards that I am accustomed to from Bar and Bat Mitzvah’s of my classmates that I went to in middle school it was still really special to have experienced such an important part of a young Jewish person’s life in Israel, along with seeing more of my relatives and having a large festive Shabbat. I don’t remember the last time I ate that much good food in one day. This is definitely one of the big occasions I will take back to the US with me.

EXPLORING THE LAND OF ISRAEL

July 23, 2013

This week alone I have been to some pretty incredible places; one being a bird observatory. Late at night I arrived with full anticipation of their weekly night hikes. The things you hear, smell, feel are heightened when you cannot see what a foot in front of you holds.

In preparation for the night ahead our tour guide taught us some tricks for listening and viewing the animals, bugs and vegetation in the dark. We watched him compare bird feathers against the wind. (Birds with heavy feathers that make noise fly during the day, while birds with light feathers travel by night.) We cupped our ears like a deer and found that the noise echoed off our hands and heard much better. Lastly we learned how to adjust our eyes to the dark and use a flashlight so that we don’t scare the wild life off.

The hike was about 2 hours long. During the light walking we heard a lot of insects. Pointed our flashlights at various objects to look at bats, insects, cats and different animals we could find. At the end, very quietly, we went to the observation deck, where we waited patiently.

Out of the darkness, we saw dark figures come out. They scurried towards food placed in front of the observation deck. There we saw the biggest porcupine I have ever seen. It glanced towards us and then scurried back into the darkness.

Jumping for joy in Israel

In the time left I want to make other nights as special and unique as this one. I have many goals of seeing the land through hiking, walking around, touring cultural historical and modern areas of the country. Who knows what this next week holds?

Samantha Weinstein, UMass-Amherst '14, traveled to Israel with CJP - first with their Taglit-Birthright Israel trip, and second on their Alternative Spring Break program - and is interning this summer at the Machol Shalem Dance Studio during her time with the Boston Onward Israel 2013 Jerusalem program.

THE LOCALS: JERUSALEM EDITION

July 23, 2013

I went on a field trip to an amusement park again today. For my job. No big deal.

Last weekend, Carolyn and I stayed in Abraham Hostel (which we both HIGHLY recommend) in Jerusalem. We visited the Old City and the Western Wall, woke up at 5 a.m. to see the sunrise from Armon HaNatsiv - a promenade overlooking the entire city - and ate plenty of delicious food from the Mahane Yehuda shuk. Here are some people I met this weekend:

Kotel Selfie

The coolest shoes in Jerusalem

Last-minute Shabbat Grocery Shopping

Niv, a physics student from Hebrew University who thinks it’s a hilarious idea to eat fruit with a meal. Grapes... with dinner?! HA!

The woman who works at Babette’s Feast, a hole-in-the-wall waffle restaurant that allows you to mix and match toppings. She warned me not to get ice cream with my waffle because I wouldn’t be able to finish it. She was probably right.

A fellow shuk shopper who helped us navigate the complex Mahane Yehuda cheese shop and got us at least ten free samples.

The waiter at Tmol Shilshom who sneakily put Sahlab on the drink menu. We ordered it, not knowing what it was. It’s an absolutely delicious pudding, but it’s definitely not a drink!

The dog (counts as a local, right?) who scared away another dog that was barking while Carolyn and I were trying to enjoy a Jerusalem sunrise.

The cab driver who really wanted to drive us from Jerusalem to Eilat, or to Beersheva, or at least to the Dead Sea.

The art student selling avocado seed necklaces in Ein Karem, a cute neighborhood in Jerusalem.

The family that tried to invite us to hang out in their convenience store... again.

The soldier who stood behind us at the bus station and showed us a picture of the bright green hair he sported six months ago.

The bus driver who became so frustrated by a car parked in the middle of the street that he got out of the bus and lifted the car himself.

ADVENTURES

July 22, 2013

Early Thursday morning, the group hopped on a bus for a day trip to the Negev. What was supposed to be a three hour drive turned into a five hour drive due to an accident on the highway, yet for most of the group it was a couple extra hours of sleep so it wasn't too bad. Sadly though, we weren’t able to make it in time for our first activity, which was volunteering for a farming organization in the desert called “Hashomer Chadash.”

After arriving at the organization and listening to a quick speech, we went to a site nearby where we had lunch by a desert oasis. It really was a beautiful, scenic place to eat lunch and possibly made the five-hour drive somewhat worth it. After lunch we moved on to a community in the Negev. The community currently has 12 families living there, seven or eight of which have a pregnant mother. There, one of the residents talked to us about their mission and reasons for choosing to start a community in the middle of the desert. He described how their goal was to build a tight-knit pluralistic community. It’s an interesting idea and they definitely have a lot of work ahead of them, especially in regards to figuring out which kinds of families they want to welcome into their community and how to tailor education to meet a wide variety of needs and beliefs.

At the desert oasis

On a tractor in the Negev desert

At a Haifa Street Festival

We then boarded the buses and left the Negev. In Haifa, we are living near the Namal, the port of Haifa. While the downtown area of Haifa hasn't always been considered one of the best neighborhoods, there is a huge effort to revitalize the neighborhood and bring young people to it. As a result, every week or two there are street parties on streets near our dorms, with live music and tons of youngsters.

This past Friday we decided to check one out. It was a funny atmosphere, especially being an American. I had never realized the extent to how different Israelis dance. Especially to this kind of trans/techno music, they stomp their feet really hard on off beats and as hard as we observed, we still couldn't quite figure it out. A lot of the moves looked quite silly to us, but since they all dance that way those moves seem to be hip.

IN RETROSPECT

July 21, 2013

It’s pretty crazy to think we’ve been here for 6 weeks now, and it’s definitely made me do some reflecting. When I landed here a month and a half ago, I had no idea what to expect. The prospects of juggling 2 internships, in Israel, with brand new people, and an apartment to manage was a lot to handle.

And, of course, it’s been nothing like I had expected. Being in Haifa is extremely different than my past summers in Israel - a lot less emphasis on religion, and much more on culture.

This lens has allowed me to make the most out of both of my internships: the first one actually being a at a community center, in which a giant theater festival is taking place at the end of July. This is a very unique community, made up of a very large Ethiopian and Russian immigrant population, as well as Jewish and Arab inhabitants. Just being there has taught me a lot about the multi-cultural society in Israel, and working in the festival has been a crazy roller-coaster ride with the best yet to come. I’ve done everything from separating the shows into different genres, marketing to Israeli newspapers, taking ticket orders (in Hebrew!), painting signs, and mapping out the grounds so that the events can move smoothly with the crowd control. I’m unbelievably excited for the three days that I have been working on all summer, and to see how a community like this can come together in harmony. This experience has only strengthened what I already knew - the arts bring people together.

My evenings at the Haifa Theater have had a much different feeling, and one that is much more what I am used to. The theater could be compared to a professional regional theater in the States - everything there is done to a professional standard, in a very organized fashion. I’ve mostly been shadowing Stage Managers at various shows, lending a hand where it’s needed and watching many, many, awesome free shows. Pretty sweet, right?

What’s more, the fact that I don’t understand Hebrew fluently forces me to focus on different things on stage: lights, sets, movements - and as I’m usually sitting by the lighting or sound technician, my view of the shows is much more comprehensive and educational, while still so fun and entertaining! I really feel as though I’m getting the best of both worlds.

I experienced another Israeli performance this past week, when I visited my cousin in Tel Aviv. We saw a performance of a group he is in, and I was blown away!

With the festival only a week away, I am sure I’ll have my hands full with all sorts of tasks in the coming days. More to come!

Standing underneath a Festival banner

Standing underneath another Festival banner

Enjoying time with a friend

THE NEGEV DESERT

July 20, 2013

This past weekend our trip was sort of a bust. The reasoning, we were told was because there was a major car accident that morning and traffic was backed up for hours. You see, we wouldn’t know because our entire group, everyone, was spread out and asleep within 10 minutes of our 6:00 am departure time.

One of our stops in the Negev was a small park. Somewhere in the middle of the desert was a patch of greenery. There was a small pond, which among the fish was unfortunately littered with plastic bottles and trash. Behind our lunch spot was what might have been the tallest mountain in the world (kidding, it wasn’t actually that tall). At the top, you could see for kilometers in all directions!

The second stop we made was to a new community, a Kfar, as they say in Israel, of only 12 families. Recently famous for having over half of the wives in the village be pregnant simultaneously, this place is essentially in the middle of nowhere! From what we heard, it seems like an interesting idea to basically start a completely new town… If there’s one thing I took away from the experience… “It’s not for everyone.”

Desert Oasis in the Negev

LOCALS ALL OVER

July 19, 2013

I spent the weekend deep in the Negev, then in Jerusalem, and lastly in Giv’at Avni, a Yishuv outside Tiberias. As I rode the bus home on Saturday night, I felt a sense of relief and comfort when our familiar Haifa neighborhood came into view. I realized at that moment that I’ve come to think of this place as my home. It’s crazy to think that the program will be over in less than three weeks. I’m already looking up the best falafel in Providence. But will they have bamba and tahina? And how will I practice my Hebrew?

But it’s still too early to anticipate the end. Each day brings something new -- a lesson I learn week on week. The Israelis I met this week certainly drove that point home.

Combatting dehydration by making hats out of our free T Shirts

Prayer at the Church of the Holy Redeemer, Jerusalem

Pupils and their Teacher

The Israeli soldiers who took a few hours out of their day to volunteer by making soap bubbles with the Henrietta Szold kids.

Emily, the second grader who pointed out to me the particular soldier she’s planning to marry next week.

The old man who gave Nate and me directions to a restaurant and then walked by the restaurant a half hour later to wave at us.

The waiter at that restaurant who simply didn’t stop bringing us free food because he wanted us to sample “the tastes of Israel.”

Matan, an Israeli from my Birthright trip, who just finished his service in the Navy and came to hang out on the beach. He got a crazy jellyfish sting!

Shiran, another Israeli from my Birthright trip, who I randomly ran into in the train station.

Yaron, a travel advisor from the Avraham Hostel, who probably knows everything about traveling in Israel. Everything. He also sold us “We are Hummus Sapiens” T-shirts.

Shay, a coworker and friend, who invited Carolyn and me to stay in her home in Giv’at Avni this weekend. She took us to synagogue, a club, and the Kinneret!

The family owners of a convenience store on Jaffa St. in Jerusalem, who invited us into their store to hang out late at night and were particularly interested in our Zodiac signs.

The two young men who work at the Green Bar -- the juice/smoothie shop in Mercaz HaCarmel -- who know me by now and can guess what I want to order.

David, a second grader, who offered some of his own candy to his classmates on the condition that they behave nicely.

A JAM-PACKED WEEK

July 18, 2013

Work was actually pretty routine this week. Dana and I continued to work on our research. It is very rewarding to feel like I am an asset to her work, and be able to provide knowledgeable conversation on the issues that we are discussing. This week we also began editing a paper that Dana co-wrote in Hebrew and is now being published in English. Because of the grammatical differences, we are going through it to make sure that what it says in English is actually what they intend, and also that things are phrased the way English speakers are familiar with.

All of that is becoming pretty routine, which is crazy to think about. I just casually know my way around this city and am beginning to pick up Hebrew phrases - I can almost count to ten! Not only am I getting to know Haifa, but this week we really made an effort to meet its people. Last week I mentioned that we had met some locals. We have now met all of their friends and hung out with them every single night this week. Its really fun to be shown a city by people who know it inside and out! We went to their favorite midweek bar, and a street party at the top of the Carmelite, as well as just spending time hanging out in backyards.

An Israeli Flag Waves in the Negev Desert

Aside from work and being social we also had our weekly content day, which this week was in the Negev. We unfortunately got stuck in traffic on the way down so we missed most of their morning programing, where we visited a farm whose job is to help protect the other farms in the Dessert. Although we did not get to participate in rock picking, we did have time to pet the horses, thus the 5 hour bus ride was worth it in my book! Next we went to a beautiful desert oasis where we had lunch and found a litter of stray puppies! We finally ended the day by going a small pluralistic settlement where both religious and secular families live together. Although they are recently famous for the fact that 9 out of the 13 families are expecting a child very soon, they are also working to live in harmony and are the first settlement of their kind.

Pony!

Puppies!

Maggie Vogel, Sacred Heart '14, is a Sociology and Political Science major. Having been to Israel on the Taglit-Birthright Israel program, she is interning this summer with the Itach as a Boston Onward Israel 2013 Haifa participant.

EXPLORATIONS

July 17, 2013

Outside of work, a few friends from the program and I did a little exploring around Haifa. After thinking that Masada Street was a little less residential than it actually was, we made our way up the mountain on the Carmelit and discovered a really nice restaurant called Mandarin, which I highly recommend. Granted it wasn’t exactly Israeli food but we got to sit outside cozily surrounded by foliage and the food was nothing to sneeze at.

The next day there was a giant street party in the same place (at the top of the mountain) and of course I wasn’t going to miss that! They had some little booths set up where you could buy food and drinks and a stage with lots of cool effects on a screen synchronized to the music that was playing. We also had the pleasure of seeing Sarit Hadad perform at the party, who is apparently a hugely popular Israeli singer. After a couple of songs I could see why – her music is beautiful and some of the songs are catchy.

At the packed street festival with friend Alex

Sam, Alex, and I appreciating the view

For our Thursday trip we very slowly made our way through the traffic to the Negev. No matter what it took, we finally got there. Our lengthened journey meant that we didn’t get a chance to get involved in the mini volunteer project that was planned but we heard about the organization and what it does with agriculture in a place as dry as the desert. For lunch we went to a beautiful little park, which had a pond in it – manmade, of course.

After lunch we visited a 13 - soon to be 15 - family settlement in the Negev and a member of the settlement told us all about how it got started, where it is now and where it is headed. It’s not often that you get to see a place just starting out like this but it really made me consider all the questions that need to be taken into account when building a particular kind of settlement with a certain community in mind.

A JERUSALEM WEEKEND

July 16, 2013

This past Thursday through Saturday, I spent the weekend in Jerusalem for only my second time this summer. Every other weekend I have traveled—to Gilo, Beit She'an, and twice to Tel Aviv. It was incredibly refreshing to not have to pack up my belongings and rush to catch a bus. After spending a long day in the Negev, beginning with a 7:00 AM wakeup and not arriving back to Lev until close to 4 or 5 PM, I was ready for bed. By Friday morning, after having slept for twelve hours, I felt a feeling of alertness that does not come around very often while in Israel.

‪I had previously heard about an outdoor artisan gallery/market that sets up nearby to my hotel on Fridays. I successfully navigated myself to Bezalel Street (even after being in Jerusalem for five and a half weeks, my sense of direction has only slightly improved) and was pleased to come across dozens of tables of art and jewelry. I spent a solid hour and a half perusing and in spite of my indecisiveness, managed to buy a beautiful gold bracelet with various shades of pink stones.

‪Though I was warned on the elevator not to walk through the shuk on a Friday afternoon, I was feeling rebellious and decided to go and buy fresh challah for my upcoming Shabbat dinner with a few friends. More often than not, I eat out at restaurants, so having pasta with pesto, challah and cheese, and edimame in my friend's room was really great.

‪On Saturday, I slept late again and checked the Israel Museum off of my top five things to do while in Jerusalem this summer. A few friends and I went in the afternoon and saw the Dead Sea Scrolls, the Second Temple model, the Israeli Art exhibit, and the ArtTricks wing. On Saturday night I again went to bed early (since sleeping was the prevalent theme of the weekend). Sunday was the last day of the summer program at which I was a tutor/volunteer, so I wanted to be well-rested.

In front of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

At an Israel Museum art exhibit

‪Overall, my weekend in Jerusalem was great and relaxing, but I'm excited to travel this coming weekend or the following. There is still a lot I want to see and do before I leave Israel.

A BOSTON-HAIFA CONNECTION

July 15, 2013

Almost eight years ago, I took part in an exchange program with students from the Hebrew Reali School in Haifa. In September of my eighth grade year at Solomon Schechter Day School of Greater Boston, a group of students from Reali spent a week with us in Boston. They stayed in our homes, came to school with us, and we went on trips around Boston together. We all bonded quickly, and after only a week, there were tears when we said our goodbyes. Throughout the year many of us stayed in touch, then in March we went to visit them and stayed with them for a few days during our Israel Trip.

Luckily for me, I come to Israel almost every year to visit family since both of my parents are Israeli. So in the summers following middle school, I would always extend my trip with my family to spend a few weeks with the friends I had met through the exchange, and also with friends I met through those friends. At first I would spend weeks in Haifa with them at a time, then with the years only a couple days each time I visited.

Starting two years ago it became harder to see each other as they all joined the army. So, when presented with the opportunity to be in Haifa or Jerusalem this summer, I figured that in Haifa I would be closer to people that I knew, in a city I was already well acquainted with.

This past weekend I stayed with my friend, Moran, the friend with whom I had been staying through the years. Going back to her house, her family welcomed me with open arms, insisting that I was no longer a guest, rather the “Aunt from America.” Moran’s mother also said that having me back there reminded me of Moran’s childhood. Even though I hadn’t seen her for two years and a cheesy as this may sound, it felt like no time had passed. On Saturday, another friend came over and we spent the day hanging out the three of us just like old times.

Moran and I today

Moran and I in 2007

TASTING HAIFA # 5

July 15, 2013

As crazy as it sounds, I think we’re all really starting to feel like Israelis. We know our bus routes, which makolets have the best prices in our area, how to use the Carmelit…we’re basically locals.

This week, we spent our Thursday trip together in beautiful Tzfat. Although the hundreds of American tourists made the experience a little bit less authentic, we still experienced a lovely day. Upon arriving, we were introduced to two Orthodox men, who played us incredible music on instruments I’ve never seen before. I even bought their CD!

But of course, I couldn’t leave Tzfat without buying jewelry! My sister and I have always shared a tradition that if one of us goes on a trip, apart or together, we get the same or similar items. On two separate trips to Israel, we got each other rings that are engraved, “fate made us sisters, heart made us friends.” This time around, I bought myself a ring with a small opal, and her earrings with the same stone.

An Alleyway in Tzfat

Culinary Creation

Also worth mentioning is the delicious shwarma I ate as I toured the old city. More on the cooking front: I finally cooked a piece of fish! Although it doesn’t sound like a big deal, it’s very empowering to feel confident enough to make a real dinner for myself and others. Before I came here, I was always too scared to try, and now I feel like I can actually be a grown-up.

But while cooking is great, it’s always fun to share meals with friends. This week, I dined with different groups of my peers for a July 4th celebration on the beach, as well as a delicious sushi outing to satisfy the craving that were going around for weeks. Stay tuned!

FOODSTUFFS!

July 15, 2013

One of the many benefits of being in a country like Israel is… obviously, the food! Of course, there’s the classics, falafel, shwarma, hummus… But throughout our travels and explorations of the area, I’ve made some favorites.

There’s Moshe’s, the place I go to with work frequently. The amount of food you get is unbelievable. Salads, dressings, specials ranging from Chinese, ground beef patty’s stuffed chicken, along with my personal favorites, items from the grill. Recently, I’ve become hooked on the Chicken breast sandwich tucked in pita.

Thrown on the grill upon order and tossed into a pita, I move onto the self serve station to stuff my pita with the spicy tomato mix, onion-cucumber salad and definitely the Tahini dressing. It makes an amazing lunch break!

This past weekend we traveled north to Tzfat. Among the synagogues, we traveled the streets searching for the perfect dessert spot. A small frozen yogurt seemed like the perfect spot. Unlike typical spots, here, you pick the fruits you want and they’re tossed into press where its manually blended!

Chicken Breast Sandwhich From Work

VISITING THE NORTH AND SOUTH

July 15, 2013

On Thursday, we traveled to Tzfat, which is the highest city in the Jewish state. Upon arrival, we reunited with the Haifa participants and were then divided into two separate groups. Each group departed for a separate tour with a plan to switch halfway through the day. Group one went on a walking tour of the old city and saw the interiors of synagogues, art galleries, and a talented musical group playing early Middle Eastern instruments.

Part two of the tour comprised of engaging in community service. Due to an unexpected snowstorm this winter much of the park was destroyed. We all worked as a team to clean up the weeds and clear the area so that eventually the citizens of Tzfat can use and enjoy the land. Although our efforts only produced minimal results, we were told that together with the help of other Jewish volunteers the park will one day be complete.

My next destination was Eilat, the southern tip of Israel. My long bus ride began at seven a.m. and finally ended at eleven a.m. When I arrived, I immediately went to the beach and the water was a magnificent shade of blues and greens. The water was crystal clear and I was able to see the bottom effortlessly, but as they say- “everything gets better when the sun goes down.”

Later into the night, after a long nap, I got into a cab and was en route to, “The Ranch,” located in the middle of the dessert. I found myself on line to see a world renowned international D.J. - Armin Van Buuren. The music was loud and pulsated through my veins. Despite the arid environment, the crowd was full of life and excitement. We danced for hours until the sun rose. It was an enchanting end to a great mini-vacation. It has been said that what language can’t communicate, music does; and I completely agree.

Palm Trees in Israel's southernmost city, Eilat

Concert in Eilat

FROM TEL AVIV TO TZFAT

July 14, 2013

This past Thursday, the Jerusalem and Haifa groups traveled together to the mystical city of Tzfat. No matter how many times I have been to this hilltop oasis, I always find something new amongst the sky blue doors and Jerusalem stone pathways. This time, I found an old and dear friend of mine who I hadn't seen in six years!

She, her husband, and their two kids moved to Tzfat after living in Tel Aviv for three years to "move away from all the noise," as my friend, Marisa, put it. She currently works in an art gallery along the "gallerim" or gallery section, of the Old City. It was so amazing seeing her, and what better place than Tzfat to reconnect with your past.

I have a greater appreciation for the religious Jews who live in Tzfat, versus those who live in Jerusalem, for example. The charedim, or Orthodox Jews in Tzfat want to paint, sing, and/or dance with you until the sun goes down. While those in Jerusalem just want to get to the Kotel or get to work. Seeing these Jews interact with us secular Jews made me feel more connected to the greater Jewish community in Israel since I have been back.

It was special to see a man with very long pa'ot play a beautiful instrument as his form of doing a mitzvah, rather than begging every man who walked by to put on Tefilin. Also, the jewelry in Tzfat is so much more beautiful than in Jerusalem. So that was a nice change of pace.

The most fun I had during this trip was when I made friends with some charedi boys who were on their way to school. I was taking some photos of the scenery as I spotted a boy staring at my camera. I turned to him and waved, and he responded with a goofy face. The game of "who can make the sillier face" continued until their teacher came to take them away from me. Even though we don't speak the same language, I still had a great time playing with these little strangers in this spiritual city.

Chasidic children playing in Tzfat

TIKKUN OLAM IN TZFAT

July 13, 2013

“Tikkun olam… Basically, it says that the world has been broken into pieces. All this chaos, all this discord. And our job - everyone’s job - is to try to put the pieces back together. To make things whole again.”
– David Levithan

The fact that this week is the halfway mark for this program is unbelievable to me. On the one hand, I’m sad that my adventure here is over in a month; on the other, I still have plenty of time left to continue to explore and strengthen my connection with Israel. One place that I hope to spend more time in is Tzfat.

Tzfat is one of the places in Israel that truly seems to embody the spirit of Judaism. When I and the rest of the Onward group stepped off the bus on Thursday into Tzfat, I felt as though I had been through a time warp; Tzfat is similar to the Old City in the sense that you can feel such a strong historical Jewish presence. Not to mention that everywhere you turn is blue, blue, blue. It’s beautiful!

For the first half of the day, the group I was with took a tour around Tzfat, exploring the streets and synagogues. We even had the opportunity to hear a concert of traditional Jewish music performed by a duo. The second half of the day, we made our small impact on the community of Tzfat by helping to clean up and repair a garden. Afterwards, we discussed the meaning of Tikun Olam, or repairing the world, and the various ways we think and hope this can be accomplished little by little. Hopefully our work at the garden and our group’s collective work at our various internships here will bring the world closer towards accomplishing this.

Because of my pretty obvious lack of knowledge when it comes to Hebrew, I started Ulpan classes at the Jewish Agency last week. We’ve been learning basic words, greetings, and expressions. I’ve also been carrying a notebook with me everywhere I go and writing down each new Hebrew word or phrase that I hear. I’m taking Hebrew this upcoming semester at Clark; hopefully, by the end of the summer, I’ll have a good head start!

This week at the Ethiopian National Project, I finished the greeting cards I’ve been working on for my fundraising campaign and posted most of them on the website. I’ve also been organizing the Facebook page, asking other volunteers to send me pictures or text about the ENP centers that they’ve been to recently. I’ve been enjoying being in the office and gaining experience helping out with the logistical side of an organization like ENP.

Intriguing Sign in Tzfat

I hope that everything I’ve learned here by volunteering at ENP and being here in Israel will carry over when I go back home, and that it can help me do my small part to repair the world in my own way.

THE LOCALS: TZFAT EDITION

July 12, 2013

Work at the Henrietta Szold school has completely changed. June was school; July is camp. Instead of studying, the students are strictly having fun. Meaning, there are field trips, cooking classes, excursions to the pool, dance parties, and more.

I spent the weekend in Tzfat with Carolyn Flax. Spending Shabbat in this blue holy city on top of a mountain was absolutely magical. What follows are people I met in Tzfat.

Street Sweepers

This Week in Tzit-Tzit Fashion

A man sitting outside his gallery who fed his dog a banana.

The ice cream shop owner who called a taxi for us.

Olivia, the rabbi’s wife, who has been baking challah every Friday afternoon for the past 39 years and generously taught a challah-baking workshop to share her secrets.

The young madrichot (counselors) at Ascent hostel who couldn’t contain their excitement when Carolyn played guitar on the roof.

The other madrichot who showed us a shortcut to get from the hostel to the main road in Tzfat and gave us directions to the sound cave, one of Tzfat’s best-kept secrets.

The Lior family who generously invited us and three other guests, in addition to their family of 14, to an enormous Shabbat dinner that lasted until midnight.

The three eldest Lior daughters who walked us all the way back to the hostel in the middle of the night.

The rabbi who delivered one of the most enthusiastic Dvar Torahs I have ever seen regarding Sinat Chinam, baseless hatred.

The Bedouin hostel security guard who made sure to wish everyone “Shabbat Shalom” and turned on and off lights for those who kept Shabbat.

The woman in the hostel lobby who recommended that, in order to truly experience Tzfat, we should simply wander through the cobblestone pathways and get lost. It was the best advice we received that weekend.

THE HALFWAY POINT

July 11, 2013

Week 5, the halfway point… I am certainty melancholy about that fact. On one hand I miss my family and friends from home, on the other this place is intoxicating and the idea of leaving breaks my heart already. Everything about it is so different here; I don’t think I have ever learned so much about life in general in such a short time. Everything makes me think, from my lack of Hebrew (I now have a flashcard app for new words that I learn) to Arab-Jewish relations.

This week our group trip was to Tzfat, easily my favorite city from my Birthright trip, so I was extremely excited. Tzfat is filled with shops were you can spend anything from 5 to 5,000 shekels on jewelry and other hand crafted work. It is also the home of the tradition of Kabbala and has many beautiful synagogues. We started the morning with surprise community gardening, which would have been really fun and exciting, except that we were in synagogue clothes and didn’t have a change of clothes… The Livnot program with whom we were volunteering sounds incredibly interesting and fun, and I am considering going back for a weekend to participate! After our less than productive gardening session we walked to the Old City to get lunch and shop! I will not divulge what I purchased because my family reads this and most of it is for them, but it was a very good morning. Unfortunately the bus with the other half of our trip got stuck in traffic with our tour guide meaning that we had a very abbreviated tour of Tzfat, which was disappointing, but such is life.

Stairs in Tzfat, the highest city in Israel

Roommates in Haifa

Upon retuning home from Tzfat we headed up the mountain to hang out with some Israeli locals. They showed us the bars up at the top of the Carmelit and we spent time just getting to know them. On Friday Mirka slept late but Mai and I ventured out to the shuk for our first time here in Haifa, with some of the people she met at her training in Jerusalem. The shuk is always a fun experience from the people shouting, to all of the different foods - and this time was no different.

On Saturday our new friends took us to a beach with a younger crowd where we learned to play matkot and encountered jellyfish. I can now say that I have experienced my first Jellyfish sting, and may not be going back in the water… sea creatures are not my thing. Be that as it may we had a very good time, and ended the week with a group trip back up the Carmelit Sunday for a sushi dinner and time with friends.

THREE CITIES IN THREE DAYS

July 10, 2013

My first week of camp at the Ofakim School culminated in my coworkers learning one of the Gangnam Style moves from me, a trip to see a show about jungle animals forming a democracy because they were tired of the lion dictating, and today’s trip to the beach. I’d have to say teaching Gangnam Style moves was the best part.

Synagogue in Tsfat

In other news, I got to see three new places in Israel over the course of three days after the work week ended. Thursday we made a group trip to Tzfat (Safed), about an hour north of Haifa, and it is considered one of the big Jewish spiritual centers. In fact, Kabbalah (aka Jewish mysticism) has a large presence here. It is also the highest city in Israel. We went into the Ashkenazi area and saw some of the Old City which had a lot of cute little artsy shops as well as some beautiful synagogues, one of which we got to go into. We also had an impromptu Middle Eastern music performance just before entering the main part of the Old City!

The second city I saw was Tel Aviv. My cousin came up to visit me in Haifa and then had a sudden idea that we should travel to Tel Aviv the next day. I thought it was a brilliant idea and so straight from the train we headed to the beach! The water felt so nice and I loved the big waves. The thing that stood out most to me was all the people playing paddleball by the water. I laid there on my towel with my eyes closed and I could hear the balls hitting the paddles in interesting arrhythmic ways. It was all worth it even though I got major sunburn. No summer with good beach access is complete without sunburn in my book!

At the beach near the Sheraton Tel Aviv

That evening I got to see a little bit of Petah Tikva, a town about half an hour outside of Tel Aviv, where my cousin lives and where I stayed that night. But that area was mostly residential. Still it was cool to see how people live outside of Haifa. And when we were going to the train station together I felt kind of special because I got the benefits of being with an Israeli soldier of not needing to have my bag checked or going through the metal detector because my cousin is serving and she was in uniform.

A LOCAL OR A TOURIST?

July 9, 2013

Once my time in Israel reached the halfway point about a week ago, I entered somewhat of a crisis mode. I realized that there is so much that I have yet to see and experience, not only in locations that are a bus drive away, like Eilat, but also in the city where I am living—Jerusalem. I want to visit the Israel Museum, Western Wall Tunnels, City of David Water Tunnels, and the neighborhood my roommate is frequently raving about—Mea Shearim. And the list does not stop there.

But as I expressed this desire to my best friend, who also happens to be spending the summer in Israel (Tel Aviv), she pointed out that we’re not necessarily here to be tourists. We’re here living everyday lives, going food shopping, using public transportation, and working. So if we don’t have the chance to see every well-known, touristy attraction, that’s okay, too.

Over the past five weeks in Israel, I feel that I have made much progress in the way of becoming more independent, particularly in the sense of making decisions and navigating Jerusalem. It is one thing to decide whether to stay in and do homework or go to a frat party with friends while at college, but it is an entirely different matter when you have endless possibilities and opportunities at your fingertips. Living in a foreign country, especially in the heart of Jerusalem, I cannot count the number of restaurants, bars, jewelry stores, and clothing stores that are within walking distance of my hotel. Simply deciding where to eat for dinner is a feat.

And navigating Jerusalem. Few words can describe the feeling of pride that washes over me each time I have successfully gotten to and from a different location. Unlike many participants on my program who walk to work or take the same bus to the same office each day, I have had to travel to various neighborhoods within the city over the past month. While Google Maps has been a huge help, it fails to get me exactly where I need to be—to the exact location of the school or community center. Traveling to Gilo, Talpiot, Neve Yaakov, Pisgat Ze’ev, and Katamon within the first few weeks of my internship took me well out of my comfort zone and required me to have to ask passersby (who don’t necessarily speak my language) for directions in order to articulate where I needed to go.

Now that I have settled into more of a routine—going primarily to the Bakehila office and summer school in Gilo—the struggle of traveling and frequently getting lost has subsided. But I’m glad to have initially taken on the challenge, which enabled me to learn about my organization and the various neighborhoods, schools, children, and volunteers on which Bakehila has a tremendous impact.

Sunset in Tel Aviv

Busses in Jerusalem

Map of Jerusalem Streets

Street View of a Jerusalem Street

Click Here for Blog Posts from Weeks 1 - 4...

BOSTON ONWARD ISRAEL 2013WITH CJP

SEE YOU NEXT TIME, ISRAEL!

GOODBYE FOR NOW, ISRAEL

MEMORIES AND MOMENTS

THE DEFENSE OF YOUR HOME

LAST OF THE LOCALS

THE BEST FOR LAST

A PART OF ME IN ISRAEL

A YOUTUBE WITH A MILLION VIEWS

A GROUP TRIP TO ACCO

SQUEEZING IN SOME MORE ISRAEL

A TO-DO LIST IN ISRAEL

A SECOND HOME IN ISRAEL

AT HOME IN ISRAEL

MUSICAL JERUSALEM

RETURNING TO GUSH ETZION

RECONNECTING WITH FAMILY

GUSH ETZION AND WINE

EXPLORING THE LAND OF ISRAEL

THE LOCALS: JERUSALEM EDITION

ADVENTURES

IN RETROSPECT

THE NEGEV DESERT

LOCALS ALL OVER

A JAM-PACKED WEEK

EXPLORATIONS

A JERUSALEM WEEKEND

A BOSTON-HAIFA CONNECTION

TASTING HAIFA # 5

FOODSTUFFS!

VISITING THE NORTH AND SOUTH

FROM TEL AVIV TO TZFAT

TIKKUN OLAM IN TZFAT

THE LOCALS: TZFAT EDITION

THE HALFWAY POINT

THREE CITIES IN THREE DAYS

A LOCAL OR A TOURIST?

BOSTON ONWARD ISRAEL 2013
WITH CJP