BOSTON ONWARD ISRAEL 2015
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THE FULL TASTE OF ISRAEL |
July 21, 2015
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I'm thankful that this week's trip allowed me to get a better
understanding of the diversity throughout Israel. The early bus ride into Be'er
Sheva was scenic and beautiful. We arrived to a Bedouin village and were greeted
by a courageous woman that was kind enough to share her story with us. She
started her story by giving us a small glimpse into the life of a Bedouin
woman. She discussed the hardships and victories throughout her life - one of
them being the success of her own soap business. It was inspiring to hear about
her breakthroughs and persistence. We also got the chance to make delicious
homemade Lafa and soap out of herb and oil. We finished the day with a meal at
a social business that gave opportunity for teens at risk. This shed light on
Be'er Sheva's opportunities and accomplishments - explaining to us how this city
is thriving and helping the population of Israel.
This week, we also received helpful skills on the do's and don'ts of the interview process. We brainstormed ways on how to present our experience in Israel to future employers when we arrive back to the States. Another week is over and we have more internship experience under our belts, as well as a better understanding of the diversity within Israel. |
THE SIMPLE THINGS |
July 20, 2015
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I'm starting to feel confident venturing out on my own, taking in the sights and sounds for myself. I have friends and family that live in Haifa, which is two hours away from my home in Jerusalem. I stayed a night with some Israeli friends, and the next day had a few hours to spare before meeting up with my aunt.
Knowing that Haifa is famous as a port city, I felt compelled to find the water. After wandering for a bit, I came across a lookout point. When I rounded the corner, I saw the most incredible view of my life — and that is not an overstatement. After simply staring in silence at the expansive panoramic view of the Baha’i gardens and the Mediterranean before me, I read a book in the shade for a couple hours, completely content with where I was. |
A PACKED WEEKEND |
July 19, 2015
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This past weekend was probably the most packed one yet. I started out in Tel Aviv, made my way back to Jerusalem, and then ended up at the Kinneret. Thursday night a few friends and I hopped on the bus and went to Tel Aviv for the night. After a fun night out we spent the first half of the day Friday relaxing and lying out on the beach before getting the bus back to Jerusalem before they stopped running.
I have family in Gilo who invited me to dinner Friday night and it was just like a typical Israeli meal. Family everywhere, kids running around, tons of food, and good times. I’ve never eaten so much food in my life. There were kebobs, chicken, rice, salad, bread, potatoes, stuffed peppers, falafel, and so much more. After dinner I was dropped back off at Beit Canada because in the morning I’d be leaving to spend the day at the kineret. One of my cousins that lives in Jerusalem drove us and it was really cool because we went a way that a traditional tour bus wouldn’t have gone and we got to drive right along the border of Jordan and see views that we haven’t actually seen before. It was probably a good ten degrees hotter there than in Jerusalem but it was so nice to swim and hang out for the day. |
WEEKEND TRAVELS |
July 17, 2015
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Thursday consisted of an after work trip to Camel Beach in Haifa with Simona. What started as a normal afternoon at the beach ended in me donating a pint of blood in the middle of the central bus station. The whole situation was hysterical. Due to the restrictions of my Hebrew conversational skills and the medic’s English skills, Simona had to translate between the two of us in Russian. Although it was only donating some blood, I was excited to be able to contribute something back to Israel.
Friday morning I took the train down to Be’er Sheva for Shabbat with a close friend from Taglit and his family. The two of us along with two other friends drove around the city and visited a park. We ate lunch at a super cute hummus restaurant and it was definitely the best hummus I’ve ever eaten. I am still kicking myself for forgetting to take a picture of the meal! Shabbat dinner was homemade and absolutely delicious and then it was time to go out! We decided to go to a hangout at one of his friend’s homes for the evening. Here they call it a “sitting.” I loved it because it was a group of 12 of his friends and even though I only knew three of them, the whole group was super accepting and sweet. They all spoke in English for me and we sat in a circle outside on the back porch. No one was on their phones and we all just chatted the night away. It was cool to be reminded that even though they are all in the army or just getting released and live half way around the world, they are just like any other college aged kid in America. |
FAMILY EXCURSIONS |
July 16, 2015
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The weekend started out in Jerusalem, with my exhausted roommates and I deciding to go to sleep as opposed to joining a group of other Onward kids on a trip to Eilat. On Friday morning, my roommate Rachel decided she was going to go to Tel Aviv to visit her sister who made aliyah, or moved to Israel, a few months prior. Since Rachel was going, Tamara and I decided to visit my cousin Netta who lives in Ramat Gan, a suburb of Tel Aviv. This time, our trip to Tel Aviv was filled with home-cooked meals, dog-walks and drives to the beach – a huge difference from the junk food and aimless wandering that is characteristic of our previous excursions to Tel Aviv.
On Saturday morning, after having a relaxed night in Rabin Square, Netta dropped Tamara and me off at the beach in Herzliya. Unlike Tel Aviv’s beaches, the shore was lively but spacious. It felt more authentic and less touristy. Tamara and I ventured into the water, but left after ten minutes because of all our medusa, or jellyfish, stings. After a while, it got too hot to just lie outside in the sand, so we explored the beachside mall, where we ate an American meal of McDonalds burgers and fries. Tired from the heat and from walking in the sand, we ventured into the Dan Acadia. I recognized the lobby back from when my parents brought my sisters and me to visit in 2006. We wandered around for a bit until we settled down in a hammock, where I face-timed my parents. I bet on their wedding day, they never assumed their middle daughter would be in the exact place where they tied the knot on the summer of their 25th anniversary. |
ADVENTURES AROUND THE COUNTRY |
July 15, 2015
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This week was centered on a wonderful nature and politics based tiyul. For this week's trip we went to Gush Etzion in the West Bank. Upon our arrival we were shown a fabulous bakery, and took in the view from the Neve David lookout. Within Gush Etzion we discussed the historical and archaeological sights and history while walking the "Patriarch's Path." Following the 3 kilometer walk, we experienced a talk on the Arab-Israeli conflict while munching on a delicious meal, accompanied by wines from the winery that hosted us.
Earlier in the week we had an education session led by our madrichim. The session focused on Israeli subcultures and was run in small groups. My group focused on the kibbutzniks and learned about the challenges they face and the differences between them and the common population. On our own we also explored Wadi Nisnas, the German Colony, Louis Promenade and the base of the Baha'i Gardens. The weather was gorgeous and we had a great time just within the bound of our own neighbourhood. |
EVERYONE IS WELCOME |
July 14, 2015
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THE LITTLE THINGS |
July 13, 2015
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Israel is so unique. Many people who come here for a quick trip don’t really get the chance to appreciate or even notice the little differences that arise when it comes to day-to-day life in the Holy Land. For one—there are cats everywhere. Beach cats, street cats, grocery store cats, restaurant cats. Basically, if you’re allergic you better watch out.
On a more serious note, one major difference between Israel and the States is the level of security that is unfortunately very necessary here. You won’t see a grocery store or a mall that doesn’t have a security guard sitting out front checking bags before people can enter through the metal detector. In America you don’t give it a second thought that you may be unsafe going shopping for the afternoon, but here there are constant reminders. Now to talk about the most important change: the showers. Ok, just kidding it’s not that important but it really is different (to put it nicely). Here all of the showers are built in a way that they’ll flood the entire bathroom by the time you’re done. Apparently it’s done in an effort to conserve water and encourage people to turn the water off and on while they’re showering. I guess I’ll have to chill out on the twenty minute showers from now on… |
A SMALL COUNTRY |
July 12, 2015
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After my weekend trip to Eilat, I have now spent a reasonable amount of time in each Israeli district. As someone whose dream is to visit all 50 of the United States (currently at 26, Alaska may be a but tricky), this trip was a special one for me.
When you cross from California to Nevada, you transition from dense, green forrest to hauntingly expansive dessert in just a couple of minutes. When you leave Boston and drive to the West, you find the rolling Appalachians up ahead and a metropolitan expanse of nearly eight million people in your rear view window. And somewhere between LA and Denver, the air literally changes its taste from an urban linger to what I can only imagine those car air fresheners are based on. But the US is gigantic, and the tiny state of Israel yielded just such an sensation as I made my way over, across, and back for the last 5 weeks. On just one bus ride, from Haifa to Eilat, I passed mountains which made my ears pop and plains of farmland to bring me back to memories of Idaho and Iowa. I saw the building in which Intel invented the microprocessor as we know it today, and an IDF base that even a Texan would tip his hat to. I still have 24 states to check off on my travel list back home. To some extent though, seeing all of Israel was just as satisfying. |
A GOOD END TO A BUSY WEEK |
July 10, 2015
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Monday evening we had our best evening program so far. A former IDF lone soldier was brought in to speak to us about his experience. It was both touching and I was on the edge of my seat the entire time.
Tuesday I successfully walked all the way home from the top of the Carmel. Haifa is on a mountain and there are three levels. The top is the Carmel, the middle is Hadar, and the bottom (where we live) is downtown. I was determined to walk down from the Carmel on my own without relying on a map or directions from anyone. It took me much longer than I anticipated it would but I had beautiful views of the city and the sunset throughout my journey. Not only do I feel accomplished, I have a greater understanding and acquaintance with the area. I haven’t felt lost or confused since my walk. Shabbat we spent in the Negev Desert in Nitzana. The highlight of Shabbat was Friday morning. We went mountain biking in the desert and had outdoor team building activities. Being the active person I am I have felt a bit restless from time to time over the weekends. I had so much fun biking and let my competitive side out with the team building activities. And yes, my team won 4 out of the 5 activities. The rest of the weekend was relaxing and discussion filled. A good end to a busy week. |
TEL AVIV AND THE DESERT |
July 9, 2015
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This week's trip to Tel Aviv stood out to me for several reasons, but mostly because it was interesting to understand the business side of Israel and all of its many innovations. This past Wednesday was all about start ups and we got to hear from the businessmen themselves. We learned about their failures, achievements, and what puts Israel in the fore front of the business world. It amazed me to see how Israel thrives even though it lacks many natural resources and a large population. Learning about these companies made me realize a lot about Israel that most don't think about when they talk about the Middle East. I felt as though I had a more rounded and clear perspective about Israel's role in the business world and all of its capabilities.
The weekend's Shabbaton was one of my highlights of the summer. Spending 3 days and 2 nights in the desert proved to be extremely enjoyable (and somewhat challenging). It was a pleasure to meet several of the other Onward groups. Hearing about their experiences really challenged the through processes behind my own. I left the desert feeling as though I had asked all of the right questions that led me to think even deeper about my faith and culture. I returned home to Haifa with a feeling that I in fact had returned home. Haifa is slowly becoming so dear to my heart and I am truly thankful for that. |
SIMILARITIES ACROSS THE GLOBE |
July 8, 2015
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This past weekend we went on the Onward Shabbaton to Nitzana, a small moshav on the Egyptian border. My group, Onward Boston Jerusalem, was joined by our sister group, Onward Boston Haifa, and Onward Cleveland which is based in Tel Aviv. All 150 of us were divided into groups with one facilitator and one shinshin, or an Israeli emissary who does community service for a year before they begin their army service. My facilitator was named Ortal, who currently goes to UPenn but was born in Ra’anana, the same city as my mother. My shinshin, Doron, had family in Transylvania before World War II, as did I. It was crazy how even though we live on opposite sides of the world, we had so much in common.
On Friday, my group began our day with Outdoor Training. We were split into two teams, red and green, and competed with each other in camp-like activities. After bonding with other members of our team, and engaging in friendly rivalry with the other, we ended with popsicles and watermelon to revitalize ourselves before the strenuous desert bike ride. It was incredibly hot, and the sandy paths were rocky and dusty, but with every stop we learned about the region’s history and cooled off in the shade. We saw old agricultural settlements, the Egyptian border, and Nitzana’s orchard where we were allowed to sample the ripe grapes. By the end, I was sweaty, sore, and hungry, but also grateful for the region’s beauty and Doron’s vast knowledge of Nitzana. Later that night, a couple other kids and I decided to lead our own Friday night prayer sing-along in a gazebo overlooking the desert sunset. Though we stumbled through the prayers without any guidance, we weren’t discouraged. We concluded with Sala’am, an Israeli song for peace that uses the Arabic word for peace as its name. |
A DESERT EXPERIENCE |
July 7, 2015
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The main experience last week was our Shabbaton at Nitzana, an educational community in the Negev. While there we were taught by Israel Fellows from across the country, as well as by Shinshinim; young adults who, post-high school, have chosen to do a year of volunteer service before their army service starts. The Shinshinim were easily the most interesting part of the trip, and it was interesting to speak with them and compare our disparate lives.
While at Nitzana we had meaningful discussions on Israel and Judaism. On the challenges and connections Jews have in the modern world. We also explored the Negev, visiting ruins, going mountain biking, and visiting a vineyard oasis in the middle of the expanse of sand. Our time in the desert, the conversations we had and the people we met exemplified Ben Gurion's love of the Negev; "Wisdom goes with the South. It is written: 'Whoever seeks wisdom, south shall he go.'" At work this week I also had fun continuing to learn the intricacies of our company, and helping to program our cybersecurity software. Monday was especially fun as we had a monthly office happy hour, with drinks and snacks in the middle of the day. The start-up life is everything it's said to be. |
A HOT WEEK |
July 6, 2015
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This past week featured A LOT of heat. Now that it’s officially July I guess you can say we’re in the full swing of summer, which basically boils down to crazy high temperatures at all times of the day. As if Jerusalem isn’t already hot enough, there are a bunch of us planning a trip to Eilat for the weekend where it is supposed to hit 106 degrees…that sounds unreal.
As for last weekend, the entire Boston program (Haifa and Jerusalem) hopped on some buses and headed south to Nitzana, which is an educational community in the Negev. We can now check off “desert biking” from the bucket list after we went on a rocky ride with a stop at a vineyard where we got to pick our own grapes! Other than that, we had a ton of free time to hang out by the pool or catch up on some sleep which was also really nice. On the way back we hit a little road bump -- the bus was vacuum-sealed shut because of the heat; the driver couldn’t even get the doors open! That’s when you know it’s WAY too hot. In the end we made it back to Jerusalem and ended our first Shabbaton together. |
LACROSSE IN THE MIDDLE EAST |
July 5, 2015
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On Wednesday, we piled back onto a bus to visit Tel Aviv and learn just what the popular buzz phrase "Startup Nation" really means. Since I began working at Terra, my understanding of venture capital and Israeli high-tech has grown by about a thousand percent. This trip to Tel Aviv's Rothschild Boulevard, though, allowed the 40 of us to bring out experiences from the past month together and form an even better context for the unique professional ecosystems of Israel.
After the trip, I stayed behind for my first international lacrosse experience! Before coming to Haifa, I sent an email to the office of Israel Lacrosse, asking if there were any playing opportunities for me to engage in for the summer. In an instance of perfectly serendipitous timing, 2015 is the inaugural season of the Israel Premiere League of Lacrosse (IPLL). Players from Israel, Canada, and America alike are coming together this July in four cities to spread the game, and compete at the highest level in the Middle East. This week was the season kick-off between a team of Americans here on Taglit and the Israeli national team, which I was able to join for the day. Playing this historically American game in Jaffa was surreal, and I cannot wait to get after it with the Haifa Lacrosse Club for the rest of the month! And of course, this weekend was our Onward shabbaton! Three days, 90 degrees fahrenheit, and 150 Onward participants in the Negev exploring Jewish identity and the Israeli experience. It was incredible meeting and bonding with the groups from all over, but at the weekend's closure I felt that our squad from Haifa had become even closer than we were before. I love the Negev's hauntingly simple beauty, and couldn't have asked for a better setting to engage in these conversations. |
JERUSALEM OF GOLD |
July 3, 2015
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Visiting Jerusalem this week was by far one of my favorite aspects of this summer's trip to Israel. Yes it's true that Jerusalem is one of Israel's most popular tourist attractions, but to me the connection is much deeper and meaningful. The stone pathways and buildings resemble thousands of years of struggle, victory, and pride. Even though I connect with Jerusalem from a Jewish perspective, it is humbling to see how so many religions love and appreciate Jerusalem as well. We had the chance to shop for part of the day and buy souvenirs for our family and friends. My eagerness to visit the Western Wall was building all day and finally visiting the beautiful site didn't disappoint the expectations at all. Walking down the stone steps towards The Kotel, I thought about the last time I had the opportunity to visit this historic place during my Taglit Birthright trip last summer. I thought about all that has changed between then and now, from my personal self to my connection with Judaism. Having experienced daily life in Israel for 2 weeks now, I felt myself more connected as I touched the holy wall and placed a note into its crevice that I wrote earlier that day. I noticed the women around me praying with love and emotion and it was impossible not to feel the presence of something bigger and powerful than oneself.
We got to explore the City of David with a tour guide, which included navigating through caves and learning about the complex history of Jerusalem. Our special treat was that we had the opportunity to learn from Pardes Institute of Jewish Studies with some extremely intelligent and special teachers. We analyzed several texts and discussed their meaning with a critical eye. The day was perfect and I felt fulfilled and refreshed as I walked onto the bus taking me back to Haifa. |
FREEDOM IN THE CITY |
July 2, 2015
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It’s hard to believe that it’s our third week on Onward already. Things that once seemed impossible have now become routine: I know the exact spot in Hadar Mall to get Aroma’s free wifi, I’ve perfected my shakshuka recipe, and most importantly, I know to hold onto the rails on the bus for dear life (Jerusalem buses are about as stable as a rollercoaster).
But whenever I convince myself that I’m falling into a steady routine, the weekend rolls around and shakes everything up. This past weekend, I went to Tel Aviv’s “Laila Lavan” or White Night, named for the city's architecture. The performances were amazing: a band played When the Saints Come Marching In on a double decker bus as a jazz quartet serenaded us from across the street. But the best part was just walking around Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv at 3AM is not something I would have been comfortable doing any other night, but on Thursday the streets were swamped. Lights illuminated Rabin Square and the roads were blocked off so Israeli teenagers and young adults could roam freely. Walking down Rothschild Street, it was hard to tell if it was 8PM or 3AM. I didn’t get to do everything I wanted to, so I know I’ll have to come back for another Laila Lavan soon. On Friday, I went to Haifa to visit some of the Israeli soldiers from my Birthright trip. We walked along the beach – no swimming because of the jellyfish – and she drove us around Haifa for a quick tour. The next day, Shabbat, we decided to go to Akko since the shuk or market would be open as Akko is a predominantly Arab town. A historic port, Akko has much of the same limestone as Jerusalem, but is highlighted with blue shutters and accents that are also found in Tzfat or in Greece. It was incredibly beautiful, but made me miss my home back in Jerusalem. After the bus ride from Haifa, I was exhausted from my travels and excited to be home. So life here has become a little routine, but it’s just the way I like it. |
GROWING ROOTS |
July 1, 2015
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The longer I spend in Israel, the more I feel roots grow. This sense of home results in a willingness to further explore both the city of Haifa and the country as a whole. Now that we've had plenty of time to settle in, I spent the past week experiencing all three of the country's largest cities.
Through my boss, I learned that this past week was the fifth annual Cyber Week, culminating in a conference hosted at Tel Aviv University. Through my internship at a cybersecurity startup I was able to register and attend the opening day, which included talks by not only leaders in the field, but also by Prime Minister Netanyahu. I'm thrilled to have had the chance to participate in an internationally significant conference and to further my professional development. Additionally this week, our tiyul brought us to Jerusalem, where I explored the Shuk and visited the Western Wall. I also went to Tel Aviv later in the week with friends to experience Laila Lavan, a citywide celebration. |
START-UP NATION |
June 30, 2015
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When my non-Jewish friends back home visualize Israel, they picture camels, soldiers, and Orthodox Jews. While Israel does have all these things in abundance, there is so much more to this unique country that Americans tend to overlook. Through our field trip this week, we were exposed to Israel from a different perspective- as a “Startup Nation.” We traveled to Tel Aviv and Herzliya last Wednesday to discover what makes Israel such a breeding ground for creative new enterprises on such a consistent and successful basis.
Through our speaker, who created a sort of Zionist Kickstarter site, Crowdmii, we got a crash course in Israeli history, economics, and entrepreneurship that was absolutely fascinating. Despite economic downturns and constant political struggles, Israelis are still able to grow their businesses at remarkable speeds, sell them, and begin the process again. Although, since being here and noting the resiliency of this little country and its people, I can’t say this totally surprises me. After this trip, some friends and I did a 180, and returned to Tel Aviv for “Lila Lavan,” an annual night where the whole city comes out to enjoy streetside attractions, such as incredible circus performers and DJs, events such as “silent discos,” and so much more. I met up with some friends from my recent Birthright trip, and we wandered Rothschild Street until the wee hours of the morning, soaking in the incredible vibrant energy I have begun to expect from this special country. |
TEL AVIV TASTINGS |
June 29, 2015
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Last week was all about Tel Aviv; we made our way there early Wednesday morning for our weekly field trip which was centered around the so-called “startup nation.” After hearing an interesting lecture on the Israeli economy from Crowdmii founder, Assaf Luxembourg, we got to meet firsthand the creator of MyMDBand which seemed to be a big hit with everyone. It was extremely interesting to hear from him and get all the nitty gritty details about what goes on behind the scenes in startups and what it takes to run one.
Thursday we were back in Jerusalem for the day — and then mostly the entire program headed right back to Tel Aviv for “White Night.” A group of us stayed at Beachfront Hostel. The weekend consisted of the beach all day, friends all night, and lots of good food in between. We found this place on Dizengoff called Cookeez where you get to choose two types of cookies and whatever type of ice cream you want and they’ll make you this amazing ice cream sandwich! Definitely worth it. All in all in was a great weekend and this week might be a tad on the rough side because we barely got any sleep. But hey who needs sleep anyway? |
DIVERSITY IN JERUSALEM |
June 28, 2015
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I've been to the Kotel twice now, and both times I was as much impacted by the diversity of the people at the wall as I was by the religious significance and history. Yes, most of those who stood beside me under the Jerusalem stone were also Jews, but that's not what I mean by diversity. A contingency of ultra orthodox Jews spent every minute of the hour I was there with their heads bowed in prayer, while only a few yards away tour groups came and went under the supervision of their Israeli guide. Perhaps most interesting was a group of young children there on a school trip, who fell somewhere in between.
Through my ears flowed Hebrew, English, Spanish, and at least thee other languages I couldn't identify with full certainty on the spot. But there was also unity. Everyone had been drawn to the Kotel by the same ancestral force, and that is something pretty neat to be a part of. From Torah study at Pardes Institute to personal time walking the streets of The Old City, I spent more time trying to silently articulate my Jewish identity last Wednesday than I had in quite some time. It's hard to make time for reflection, and I was glad to have had a day for that sort of thought. |
A NEW YORK GIRL IN HAIFA |
June 26, 2015
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We officially completed our first full week as Haifa residents! I hit the ground running at my internship with FlowMed, a startup in HiCenter. I am absolutely loving my work because I have a lot of responsibility and my contributions actually have an impact on the company. Work isn’t the only thing keeping me busy though.
On Wednesday, we had our first Onward day trip. The trip consisted of hiking the Amud Trail in the North, attending a lecture on top of Mount Bental, and touring the Golan Heights Winery promptly followed by a tasting. Mount Bental really stood out because we could hear heavy artillery and see the smoke from the fighting going on in Syria. This was a very foreign experience for me, a New York City girl, who has only seen images or heard sounds like those we encountered on the evening news. Lastly, daily life in Haifa is still filled with surprises but I feel I have assimilated pretty well. Whereas the first night in Haifa I went running in the bus lane by accident and ended up having to jump in the bushes to get out of the way. The surprises now are pleasant and include playing Matkot with friends at night in Paris Square, having a potluck dinner with the group on the roof and discovering a new area of the neighborhood, to name a few. With week one in the books, I look forward to what week two brings! |
ANOTHER AWESOME WEEK |
June 26, 2015
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The talk amongst ourselves on the Metronit this morning was filled with shock as to how we have already started our second week of exploring our internships and the beautiful country of Israel. My personal highlight with the group was this past Wednesday when we hopped on a bus and traveled to the north of Israel. We enjoyed a scenic hike with a tour guide and got to splash around in a calming and refreshing creek. Israel is filled with an abundance of scenic routes that range from desert to a plethora of green and it was an exciting experience to hike a part of The Israel Trail, which ranges from the Golan Heights to the Negev Desert. Exhausted from the hike, we ended the day with a wine tasting from Israel's best winery! These Wednesday trips strengthen the bond between our group as well as our personal relationship with Israel and all of its many aspects that we are eager to explore.
As for my internship, I am constantly astounded at how caring and thoughtful the staff is at Tirat Carmel Mental Health Center. The care they have for each patient makes me extra passionate to work in the field of therapy and psychology. In just a week, I have already formed relationships with the patients, who have given me a sense of perspective on mental health and well-being. While I spend these precious moments within Israel, I make sure to soak in every moment - from grabbing a coffee at Cofix to going grocery shopping with my roommates, to eating Bamba at the beach, I am thankful for getting to know the daily life in Israel and each day strengthens my appreciation for my culture and my people. Here's to another week! |
TURNING 19 IN JERUSALEM |
June 25, 2015
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This past Saturday marked my 19th birthday. One of my concerns about living in Jerusalem for the summer is that the city shuts down on Shabbat; I was convinced I would have nothing to do on Saturdays. Little did I know, there are neighborhoods and streets in Jerusalem that are bustling with life on Shabbat -- an interesting juxtaposition to the closed shops and bakeries throughout the rest of the city. For my birthday lunch, I went to the First Station, an entertainment plaza that is littered with restaurants, jewelry stands and young families. The First Station has quite the history: the first train to Jerusalem arrived there from the Jaffa Port in 1892. In 1946, the pre-independence Jewish paramilitary group known as the Irgun bombed the station. Nowadays, the First Station hosts festivals, shows and has a musical kabbalat shabbat every Friday night.
After eating lunch and getting our faces painted at the First Station, Shabbat was still not over. While my friends and I waited for the Egged Bus service to resume following the closing of Shabbat, we watched the sun set at an overlook of the Old City, walked through Hutzot Hayotzer (Jerusalem’s artists’ colony), and visited Teddy Park. Teddy Park is a garden across the street from the Jaffa Gate that is well known for its fountain, the only light and sound fountain in Israel. As it turns out, 19 is not too different from 9, and I joined the dozens of kids dancing in the fountain to original music performed by the New Jerusalem Philharmonic. All in all, my birthday reminded me of one of my favorite things about Israel: the combination of the old with the new. Israel’s history is vibrant and present in modern times, especially when mixed with new Israeli culture. |
HAIFA HAPPENINGS |
June 24, 2015
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My objective for our first full week in Haifa was to explore the city and settle into my internship. Together with my roommates I set out to dive into a new part of the city almost every single day. Once we went into the German Colony, catching a gorgeous glimpse of the Baha'i Gardens from their base, surrounded by delicious smelling restaurants (and a solitary Pizza Hut). Another day we made our way to Masada Street, which was covered in hipster bars and awesome graffiti. On the way back from Masada Street we found a lovely little park overlooking the "Rocket Tower," which seems ideal for future picnics. One day we ventured just outside our doorstep across the street, where the underground club Kartel is located on the occasional weekend. The building that houses the club was covered in intricate graffiti, and made for a really cool urban setting. On Shabbat we decided to visit the Arab neighborhood around Wadi Salib, finding some yummy hummus and a few open stores to break up the peace and quiet of the day.
With our first full week also came our first tiyul, or trip. For our first adventure we explored the beauty of - and the conflict near - Israel's north. We went on a hike near the Amoud River, pausing midway to refresh in a pool of crystal clear water. From there we traveled to Mt. Bental, overlooking the Syrian border. This experience was particularly gripping and immersive because the civil war was in full bloom, with mortars and machine guns clearly audible, while we heard a talk on the security history and challenges of the region. With our second week in Haifa drawing to a close, everyone seems to be settling in. We've had time to get to know the area around us, finally stop getting lost in the buses, and had some chances to meet up with everyone's Israeli friends from past Israel experiences. I close out our first full week excited for what lies ahead on this journey. |
A LAND OF JUICY CONTRADICTIONS |
June 23, 2015
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The most recent revelation I have had after my second full week on Onward Israel is that Israel is as fickle as the New England weather I am so used to; but in a sense that transcends this country’s often sweltering days and chilly nights. Firstly, this applies to the Negev (desert), where we spent our first Wednesday trip. The point of this trip was to gain a deeper understanding of the desert as more than just a desolate sandy expanse. This was certainly proven true through our hike ending in a waterfall, our stop at a lush winery, and a final trip to the Shanti House, which was probably the most surprising of the three places. The Shanti House is a second option for kids escaping rough lives, and it offers a roof over their heads as well as extracurricular activities and emotional support. It was so unexpectedly lush, tranquil, and beautiful— quite the departure from the harsh desert environment I had envisioned.
Another surprising contradiction that presented itself was at the shuk, or market, where the cultural boundaries are at once fluid and rigid. While exploring the area with friends on a Friday afternoon, I was shocked to realize how much diversity is packed into such a small area. We could walk five minutes from storefronts with menorahs and crocheted kippot adorned with university logos, and all of a sudden be transported to the Muslim quarter, where foreign pastries and floor-length traditional Islamic dresses were displayed. Amplifying the dramatic shift was the fact that Ramadan was starting, and the streets were ridiculously clogged with people on the way to buy their final groceries and head off to pray. We then wandered into the Christian quarter, where storefronts were in Greek and wooden nativity scenes were being peddled. I have never before encountered a place like this -- at once arid and lush, old and new, religious and secular, and at once such a holy site for so many different types of people. What a juicy contradiction! |
EXPLORING & SETTLING IN |
June 22, 2015
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Another week has come and gone and everyone is starting to get settled into their internships and life in Jerusalem. The bus stops are becoming more and more familiar and we’re slowly learning where all the local hotspots are. I’ve been to the shuk so many times that I’m actually starting to recognize the faces of the vendors and figure out exactly where to get all the best food, from coffee halva to the sweetest jaffa oranges to shakshuka that is so good it’ll leave you wanting more. Walking around the shuk is such an amazing thing—there’s nothing like wandering around and weaving through the masses of people, hearing different languages with every turn, and smelling all of the different spices only to realize that you may have just passed that same sushi bar five times in past twenty minutes.
Friday everyone headed to Tel Aviv; surprise, surprise. Instead, Jenna and I decided to check out what there was to see in Haifa. We took the train early Friday morning and checked into our hostel: Port Inn. The city is all one massive hill…we decided to walk to the Baha'i gardens from where we were staying and let’s just say our legs were a bit sore after that. The hills are crazy but it was 100% worth it. The views are breathtaking and you can see the entire city from the top. This was one of my favorite things about Haifa, other than the beaches of course. A Florida girl always has to have her beach! |
MY COUSIN'S BIG ISRAELI WEDDING |
June 21, 2015
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Last year, my cousin got married to a guy who comes from a big Israeli family. And by big, I mean there were over 100 Israelis at his wedding in California - only days after the reopening of Ben-Gurion Airport following Operation Protective Edge. Since that wedding, I've grown closer with my cousin's husband, Jeff, and his family. So, when I told him I was headed to Israel this summer, he immediately threw me on the guest list for his cousin's wedding in Akko on June 19th.
To say that this family accepted me with open arms is an unacceptable understatement. Five days before the wedding, I attended a family dinner in suburban Haifa, at which I finally met the bride, groom, and their immediate families for the first time. Together we laughed, ate, and talked about everything from Haifa's beaches to the NBA finals (I was the only one rooting for Golden State over Cleveland, a team coached by an Israeli). I showed up a stranger, but I left as comfortable as I am with the family I grew up with. The wedding itself was incredible. Hundreds and hundreds of guests, a beautiful modern-Jewish musical ceremony, and hours of dancing with my newfound community. Never in my life had I felt more welcomed and unconditionally accepted than at my cousin's-husband's-cousin's big Israeli wedding. And on top of all that fun, I also had my first full week of work! I am still new and adjusting to Terra, but with every day I reach a more sophisticated understanding of VC, the Startup Nation, and (especially) Israeli public transportation. While my first few projects have been fairly routine, I can sense exciting challenges in the near future. |
THREE CITIES, THREE DAYS |
June 19, 2015
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Jerusalem: #ballsohard
After introductions the Onward orientation we were settled in our rooms for the night I was ready for my first adventure. Sammi, a girl I had briefly met at the orientation back in Boston, volunteered to explore the complex with me. So there we were, two American girls walking around when we stumbled upon some IDF soldiers holding a basketball. Of course the only thing to do was to ask if we could play and for the next hour we played two games of pickup with the Israelis and totally held our own! |
Haifa: #nonmicrowavableplates
We finally moved into our apartments in Haifa! I have the best flat mates (Jerry and Sammi). After touring the neighborhood with our Madrichim, Sammi and I decided to buy some groceries at the store. Grocery shopping is generally not notable but this time it was. First, the store is “conveniently” located on the side of a steep hill that is only accessible by walking up several steps. Second, it took us around an hour to locate the few basic food essentials we needed because everything is in Hebrew (neither of us are literate in Hebrew) and we couldn’t shop by recognizing brands because none of the brands are the same as back home in the States. Laughs were not few and far between today. At dinner, Jerry, Sammi and I could not stop laughing: we learned the hard way that our plates are not microwave friendly and we bonded over a giant half watermelon that we devoured using only spoons because we still were not fully acquainted with our kitchen supplies and their whereabouts. |
Tel Aviv [ya Habibi]: #PrideParade
A group of Haifa Habibis went into Tel Aviv on Friday for the Gay Pride Parade. The parade was absolutely crazy! The streets were packed, the sun was strong, and the music was blasting. Everyone was smiling and dancing. Those of us that had been on Taglit right before Onward were even able to sing along to some of the Israeli music we were familiarized with while on Taglit! The path to the parade included people spraying water guns and hoses from their apartment balconies, which was more than welcome in the heat. The parade opened up on the main street along the beach where several themed trucks (floats) with dancing men led the crowd. It is no surprise that we managed a total of 11 miles because of all the dancing and walking the parade inspired. However, with Shabbat approaching we decided to head back to Haifa before the trains stopped running and exhausted from all the excitement of the day, we were ready for a restful Shabbat. |
LET'S DO THIS! |
June 19, 2015
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Weeks of excitement were finally over as I walked through Ben Gurion airport, carrying my luggage with a big smile on my face. Don’t get me wrong, Boston to Paris to Tel Aviv was an exhausting trip, but I was eager to start my journey. The first night was spent in a Jerusalem hostel, getting to know the rest of the group and chatting about our internships and expectations. It was so interesting to hear about everyone’s interests and how it all related back to our love for Israel. The one thing that we had in common was that we have all been in Israel before and we desperately wanted to contribute back to the Holy Land through our internships. The plethora of internship choices truly amazed me.
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As we drove into Haifa by bus, it all became real that this was going to be our home for the next 2 months. The view of the sea and the changes of elevation truly made for a beautiful view that one could never get tired of. The gay pride parade was the following day so we hopped on a train to Tel Aviv and explored the beautiful city. It was fascinating to see the different viewpoints of Israel and the way people strongly stood up for what they believed in - including freedom of sexuality and voice. We tasted delicious candy and fruits from the Shuk Ha’Carmel and bought falafel and hummus - the best! The next day was spent at the beach and enjoying the calmness of the Mediterranean. Some of us learned a lesson about applying the appropriate amount of sunscreen!
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SO GOOD TO BE BACK |
June 18, 2015
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It was really tough to say goodbye to Birthright. I had been dreaming about the trip since I was a little girl, and it lived up to its reputation as the experience of a lifetime. I got to tour Israel with friends -- old and new, Israeli and American -- and acclimate myself to Israeli culture, weather and environment. As I rode the Israel Rail to Jerusalem, though physically tired, I felt rejuvenated and excited for the second leg of my Israel adventure. Onward, here I come!
Socially drained from ten days of meeting new people and making new friends (thanks, Birthright), I thought I would be incapable of small talk. Yet, friendships were formed quickly as trips to Tel Aviv’s Gay Pride Parade were planned, visits to Ben Yehuda street were made and groceries were bought. |
It had been a long three years since I had last been to Israel and the moment I stepped off the plane I felt at peace. There is just something in the air here, something about the dense historical significance mixed with the Mediterranean breeze that is lacking from my life back in New York and in Providence. I felt it at Ben Gurion. I felt it at the Gay Pride Parade. I felt it at my first day of my internship at a supercool startup, RoadShows. I even felt it when I accidentally found myself in an ultra-orthodox neighborhood of Jerusalem, Meah Shearim, in shorts and a t-shirt.
And it feels so good to be back. |
BONDING & EXPLORING JERUSALEM |
June 17, 2015
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After a whirlwind Onward Israel orientation, we were shown to our apartments, that had shockingly large rooms for each of us, but only half had balconies, which instantly became a status symbol and a place to hangout. Fun fact: it took 16 college students 2 days of freezing cold showers to figure out how Israeli hot water works.
Our second day in the apartments was also our first Shabbat. Together with my roommates and people from three other apartments we managed to put together a decently authentic Shabbat table and meal. The food was potluck style, and everyone impressed with homemade salad, shakshuka, potatoes, chicken, pasta and devilled eggs. Together we acquired a challah, wine and even candlesticks. Fulfilling the mitzvah of Shabbat in Israel with a group of college-aged Jews, now a group of new friends, was an amazing experience and one I hope morphs into a tradition. |
Over the weekend we tried to take every advantage of our prime location in the city. Several groups of us tore through Shuk Talpiot (the market) and later more than half of our program made a pilgrimage to the beaches of Haifa. Although some learned the benefit of sunscreen the hard way, we all had a great time those free days helped us to coalesce as a group.
Sunday brought with it the first day of interning. I'm working at Sixgill, a small cybersecurity startup, programming their system to detect business cybercrime. Can't wait to see what the first full week brings! |
FITTING RIGHT IN |
June 16, 2015
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Man, I feel tired. Perhaps it’s the intense drooping sensation I feel in my eyelids after a full day at work. Or maybe it’s the fact that I just worked out a monthly budget and threw a load of laundry in the washing machine. I also can’t discount the grocery shopping I did earlier, and the dishes and sweeping as well.
It's been pretty cool to realize what a degree of independence I have been able to maintain thus far during Onward Israel without blowing my shekels on ice cream or oversleeping for work. Plus, all these “real-life” tasks have an Israeli twist to them I find irresistible. My job at PR firm Finn Partners employs an eclectic mix of people, most of whom made aliyah from all over the world, and many of Finn’s clients are Israeli technology companies and non-profit organizations. |
After work, I boarded the bus and met up with my roommates at the shuk, or marketplace. We meandered the narrow aisles bursting with fresh produce and meats, pastries like rugelach, and aromatic spices, among other things. We used our collective broken Hebrew to buy tons of all this food from friendly vendors. After we brought it home and prepared a delicious veggie-based dish, we propped our feet up, devoured our dinners, and kvetched about how tired we were. I think we’ll fit right in here.
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"NO RULES" ISRAELI LIFESTYLE |
June 15, 2015
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It feels like I’ve been here all summer and yet it's only been ten days.
One Airbnb, two apartments, and two hostels later I’m somewhat getting to know my way around Tel Aviv and Jerusalem…if you forget about the part where I get lost every time I try to take public transportation. (And I really do mean every time). Eventually some kind soul delivered the best news of the trip: Uber works here. It’s still a no on the Netflix but at least we have Uber right? |
After spending some time in Tel Aviv I learned a few things:
(1) You can wear literally whatever you want. Some people go out in heels and dresses and others go out in shorts and flip-flops. (2) There are vegan restaurants everywhere. (3) A nice walk down the beach doesn’t exist unless that includes getting hit in the head with a small rubber ball that everyone hits back and forth with paddles. (4) Don’t try to ride two people on one bike (unless you know how) because people will laugh and take pictures of you. (5) “This is Israel, there are no rules” So far, living here has been completely different than it was coming for a short trip with family or with a program. You get to learn stuff that you never would’ve known otherwise, especially if you’re meeting up with locals who will take you around. Walking around Machane Yehuda during the day, something most people here have done, VS. at night when it’s all closed up is like night and day (literally). I can’t wait to see as much as I can and I’m so excited for the next two months!! |
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO TEL AVIV |
June 14, 2015
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There's been some incredible excitement felt by all 40 of us here in Haifa. My trip from San Francisco was long, 51 hours door-to-door to be exact. Nonetheless, once I arrived it became clear sleep would not be abundant for the next couple of days. Within 72 hours of arrival, I had been through orientation, spent the day in Tel Aviv for the Middle East's largest pride parade, and had a stunning day at Ha-Carmel.
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I finally did get some rest at the beach the next day. As we played matkot and watched the sun set over the Mediterranean, my new friends and I began to get to know each other on a deeper level than Facebook stalking for the last few weeks would allow. We all started work on Sunday, and by my next post will have had a full week at our respective jobs. There is so much to look forward to that it's almost difficult to live in the moment - but as far as things go that's not a bad problem to have!
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